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Active Surfactant Matter in Surfactants
I’m no chemist but have been experimenting for about 5 years now with all sorts of different ingredients.
I have a few questions and maybe some of you can help.FYI: I use Sodium Laureth Sulfate (25.5% active surfactant matter) and Cocamidopropyl Betaine (I believe it could be 30% ASM) as my surfactant blend in my shower gel.
1. Does a higher active surfactant matter (ASM) in surfactants make more lather?
2. If the ASM is higher, will it also thicken up a formula with a lot less surfactant being used?
3. What would be a good ratio (percentage) of SLeS to CB in a formula?
4. Is Cocamidopropylamine Oxide a good foam booster and what would any of you recommend on the usage in the formula below?
I don’t add any oils to my formula that would compromise lather, apart from the fragrance oil and that’s added at 1%.
My formula is simple (and I’m HOPING I can keep it this way, just adjust percentages) and when the percentages used are all mixed and homogenous, it thickens up to a beautiful, honey-like-consistency gel.
However, a lot of shower gel has to be used on a loofah to keep and maintain the bubbles and lather while scrubbing. Also, my bubbles don’t stay nice and full during the scrubbing of the body. They start to diminish pretty quickly, like, after 45 seconds, or so.
Again, I’m wondering if this has to do with the ASM in my surfactants???
This is my current recipe:
Water - 40%
SLeS - 32 %
CB - 23%
Glycerin - 3%
Fragrance - 1%
Preservative - 1%
p.H. is usually around 6.5-7
Any input on this recipe of mine would be helpful! I’m trying to lower the usage of both surfactants and hoping to increase the water, to help save on costs. Thank you, all!
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4 Replies
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1 yes
2 yes
3 3:1
4 depends
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Thank you! This definitely helps!
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Remove the glycerin and see if your foam improves at all, there’s no real benefit to including it in wash-off and it can diminish foam. Abdullah’s recommendation of 3:1 ASM is good and should help you on cost a little (assuming your CAPB is more expensive than SLES). Some polymers can help with foam stability as well (HPMC comes to mind first), but not sure you want to include them as they would increase cost/ processing.
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Hi, don’t know if you still looking for answers, i wanted to contribute 🙂 so, i use much less SLES and CB than you (about 1/3 of your %) and mine lathers perfectly. note that the SLES gives big abondant bubbles, the CB stabilizes them and gives more of a creamy lasting lather. Important thing about my formula: i add 3% of coco-glucoside and i do 1:2 ration of CB:SLES, it improves lather significantly and help the thickening (and less irritating)
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