-
Soaping in face cream
I’m having a hard time after over 50 testing pots so thought i’d ask here! Trying to formulate a face cream with Montanov 68 emulsifier but getting soaping regardless of the emulsifier/oil ratio used. Tried everything from 5% Montanov and 15% oils to 1% Montanov and 7% oils, but getting soaping every time. The formula is basic with just Water, Oils and Emulsifier, due to testing stage. Did not test with any thickeners/fatty thickeners as I believe this would make things worse? Any suggestions? I won’t be using dimethicone or similar as the product is marketed as ‘plant derived’. Thanks all
-
13 Replies
-
You could try adding some emollients (cetyl palmitate or capryl glycerides)
Silicones, of course, will solve the problem.
When you let the marketing story restrict your formulating, you usually just have to accept inferior performance.
-
Thanks Perry. I tried Isoamyl Laurate and Caprylic/Capryc Triglycerides in place of plant oils and it wasn’t perfect either.
I hear ya, want to give up on the whole ‘plant derived’ malarkey and get playing with some ‘good’ ingredients! ????
-
Dimethicone will solve your problem. All these other approaches may help some, but if you want the most simple, effective solution, just drop in 1% Dimethicone.
-
Thanks mark. When I compare samples against popular cult brands with seemingly innocent plant derived ingredient lists it does baffle me how they’re able to achieve such high functioning products. Especially when I’m using the exact same ingredients. Would this have to do with the manufacturing process and state of the art equipment they have at their disposal, or ‘something else’. I have a chemistry background so I’m not new to experimenting and understanding ingredients, but I’m wet behind the ears when it comes to beauty formulating and how the industry operates as a whole, which will only come through experience I suppose.
-
Of course all kinds of cr^p goes on. How about post the inci of a benchmark you are describing…and the group can take a look…and maybe shed some light.
If you add enough of the several inferior (to dimethicone) ingredients, you can usually make some progress. Probably the best place to start…is with an emulsifier that is not prone to soap. I think…if I recall correctly…the Polyglycerol types would be in this category.
-
Generally that addition of some cetyl alcohol is thought to reduce soaping…not add to it.
-
Have you tried putting the M68 in the water phase? Does wonders for OliveM 1000, and is an acceptable place for most of the Montanovs. Give it a try. 🙂
-
Thanks @Graillotion I shall try that.
The simplest formula I found was: Water, Aloe Vera Juice, Sweet Almond Oil, Cetearyl Alcohol, Shea Butter, Glyceryl Monostearate, Glycerin, Coconut Oil, Xanthan Gum, Extracts and EO’s, tocopherol, preservative.
There is very minimal soaping in this product (almost none) and feels nice and creamy and ‘glidy’ when rubbed in, without being too oily. I’m questioning how they achieved this given the ingredients. Perhaps I havent struck that elusive ratio yet!
-
Perhaps the portion of aloe vera juice (instead of all water), acts as a buffer for the soaping, and/or contributes to partially thickening, therefore reducing the amount of cetearyl alcohol required?
-
This formula doesn’t have emulsifier. Is it stable?
-
Maybe the lack of an emulsifier….which is usually the soaping cause…is the reason there is no soaping? ????
I would find it hard to believe a little fatty alcohol + GMS = A stable emulsion???
-
Good point ???? I think they are using the Glyceryl Stearate (SE) as the emulsifier? Although i’m aware it’s more for W/O emulsions. And cetearyl as co-emulsifier/thickener. I have seen similar recipes in several other natural creams (combination of glyceryl stearate with cetearyl or cetyl alcohol only, nothing else), and they all seem to work in a similar fashion - same consistency, skin feel, etc. I’ve had this particular bottle for over 2 years and its still beautiful and creamy, no separation or growths. Is this possible??
-
-
-
-
-
-
Using amount of low hlb emulsifier may solve the problem.
Log in to reply.