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HEC and soapiness
So, I decided to formulate a test batch of
AHA serum using HEC as the gelling ingredient. I honestly don’t know what grade of HEC I purchased as I got it from a local supplier who has no idea what grade of HEC she’s selling. But my main concern is on the soapy effect it gives on application to the skin. While it creates a clear serum-ey gel at the right percentage and also sinks in beautifully into the skin, I hate the soapy effect it offers. Is this normal with HEC? If so, how can it be avoided without changing the formula to an emulsion serum -
13 Replies
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You would really need to post the entire Formulation for anyone to help.
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Are you saying….what is on your hand….is Just HEC and water?
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Microformulation said:You would really need to post the entire Formulation for anyone to help.Distilled water 25%.allantoin. 0.5%sodium lactate. 3%.hyaluronic acid. 0.1%.citric acid 1%.lactic acid. 7.95%.glycolic acid. 2.27%.distilled water. 58.08%.HEC. 0.6%.germall plus. 0.5%.NaOH solution. q.s -
Lilly said:So, I decided to formulate a test batch ofAHA serum using HEC as the gelling ingredient. I honestly don’t know what grade of HEC I purchased as I got it from a local supplier who has no idea what grade of HEC she’s selling. But my main concern is on the soapy effect it gives on application to the skin. While it creates a clear serum-ey gel at the right percentage and also sinks in beautifully into the skin, I hate the soapy effect it offers. Is this normal with HEC? If so, how can it be avoided without changing the formula to an emulsion serumMicroformulation said:You would really need to post the entire Formulation for anyone to helGraillotion said:Are you saying….what is on your hand….is Just HEC and water?
No. That is not what I’m saying. However, prior to taking this picture, I made dissolved 0.5% HEC in 99.5% water. I experienced thesame but did not take it seriously since it was my first time working with HEC. I’ll make another batch with just HEC and distilled water and send a picture over of the soapy feel
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@Lilly HEC can have that effect. Could you replace some of your HEC with Xanthan gum?
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@Lilly, @ketchito is right on here: the “activated” versions (easy to disperse) will foam like this. Straight up HEC foams less.
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Lilly said:So, I decided to formulate a test batch ofAHA serum using HEC as the gelling ingredient. I honestly don’t know what grade of HEC I purchased as I got it from a local supplier who has no idea what grade of HEC she’s selling. But my main concern is on the soapy effect it gives on application to the skin. While it creates a clear serum-ey gel at the right percentage and also sinks in beautifully into the skin, I hate the soapy effect it offers. Is this normal with HEC? If so, how can it be avoided without changing the formula to an emulsion serum
Hi, You can Try with Xanthan Gum(Keltrol Range), and Polyquaternium 37 Which give a clear transparent Gel System. Ultrez Range Polymers also Can Be Used
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ketchito said:@Lilly HEC can have that effect. Could you replace some of your HEC with Xanthan gum?
Thanks for your reply. I would’ve done so but the grade of xanthum gum I have at the moment is quite low. Very stringy and creates cloudy gels. But when I have my hands on xanthum gum soft, I’ll try it again.
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Vignesh_95 said:Lilly said:So, I decided to formulate a test batch ofAHA serum using HEC as the gelling ingredient. I honestly don’t know what grade of HEC I purchased as I got it from a local supplier who has no idea what grade of HEC she’s selling. But my main concern is on the soapy effect it gives on application to the skin. While it creates a clear serum-ey gel at the right percentage and also sinks in beautifully into the skin, I hate the soapy effect it offers. Is this normal with HEC? If so, how can it be avoided without changing the formula to an emulsion serum
Hi, You can Try with Xanthan Gum(Keltrol Range), and Polyquaternium 37 Which give a clear transparent Gel System. Ultrez Range Polymers also Can Be Used
Thanks so much. I’ll reformulate these when I have my hands on any of these.
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Add some volatile solvent like alcohol or PG will help to break foam formed during rubbing on your skin, i also have that problem, but as serum usage not as much you apply in you hand, so it’s okay as long you rub it more slower with slight pressure the foam will disappears. If still persistent reduce viscosity or hec concentration.
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ariepfadli said:Add some volatile solvent like alcohol or PG will help to break foam formed during rubbing on your skin, i also have that problem, but as serum usage not as much you apply in you hand, so it’s okay as long you rub it more slower with slight pressure the foam will disappears. If still persistent reduce viscosity or hec concentration.
Thanks so much. I finally reduced the % of HEC to 0.35%. It still foams but not as much. I hydrated the HEC in glycerin first before adding water. Next time, I’ll retry it with PG.
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I don’t think you need to slurry the HEC. Just add to water, disperse properly, raise pH, let hydrate and do whatever you need after
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Paprik said:I don’t think you need to slurry the HEC. Just add to water, disperse properly, raise pH, let hydrate and do whatever you need after
Yes. I’ve figured there are different ways of working with HEC. Just wanted to see if creating a slurry in glycerin will reduce the soapy effect HEC gives on application to skin.
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