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For your review-face primer and suggestions?
I have a face primer for oily skin… any suggestions? I did notice I get a soaping effect. What can i do about it?
Deionized
Water (0.2 µm filtered)71.210 sepimax zen 0.400 sodium
hyaluronate0.090 propanediol 3.000 sepimat H10 1.400 botanessential
olive S-EHO10.000 Lexfeel7 3.000 cetaryl
alcohol1.000 cetyl alcohol 2.000 Montanov 82 3.000 turmeric
butter0.500 sweet almond
oil1.000 octyl
palmitate0.750 caprylic/capric
triglyceride0.750 vitamin E 0.100 Collagen 0.200 Dermofeel
PA-120.200 flower
extract0.200 orange flower 0.200 spectrstat 1.000 -
6 Replies
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Add some light silicone. I would use D5, it works well for oily skin. Also check refractive index of your oils. I might be wrong but I recal CCT is high.
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@ngarayeva001
Thank you for the review!!! Can’t use D5 -no silicones.. I did increase the amount of lexfeel and that did help. What I am thinking is to use a silicone alternative that has the same viscosity as 250 or 350 st. -
LexFeel N200 or N350? I never used these and can’t tell you anything you wouldn’t find online within 10 seconds… However, the silicone alternatives I tried do not considerably help with soaping. This is obvious due to the chemistry of silicones which simply can not be replicated with most non-silicone molecules (some might but they are usually non-cosmetic and fully petroleum base -> the latter doesn’t seem to bother you, the former should). Hence, removing/reducing the ingredient which causes soaping (must be the Montanov) is the easiest option. Simply increasing the oil phase can also help but that comes with possible drawbacks. -
@Pharma
give with one hand and take with the other. I was thinking the Montonav might be the culprit. Do you recommend an emulsifier? -
That’s like asking: I have that boat, it tends to rock a bit, whatcha recommend?The answer could be ‘airplane carrier’ or ‘supertanker’ but maybe you would feel more at ease with a catamaran or stick with your current boat but sail on a lake instead of the open ocean.
Alkylpolyglucosides (part of the Montanovs) have a large space where they form liquid crystal structures (aka alpha gels) on the aqueous phase-oil phase-emulsifier triangular landscape called pseudoternary phase diagram. See random example HERE page 8, other landscapes look very different and my not contain all possible phases and mixed-type areas or such of complete emulsion failure.You can see that even minor changes of either of the three partners or their constituents might push you out of that area, possibly in one where the APGs do what they do second-best: foaming. Understanding emulsion types and your specific emulsion and its parts helps to guide you over that landscape to your target point. How you do that is impossible to predict just by looking at the products composition. However, with some well planned trials you could predict which adjustments are more or less likely to help.Three strategies I see (on aformentioned page, you’re most likely somewhere on the left side but aim for a lamellar pattern): Use less emulsifier, add low polarity oils at sufficient amounts, and/or add more liquid crystal promoters (by preference of the monoglyceride or sorbitan ester type -> if you’re still in the HLB age = a low HLB co-emulsifier). -
Add 2% glyceryl stearate or glyceryl oleate. This also help with soaping.
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