Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating What makes Paula’s choice 10% Glycolic acid moisturzier feel so moisturizing?

  • What makes Paula’s choice 10% Glycolic acid moisturzier feel so moisturizing?

    Posted by Zink on November 20, 2020 at 7:13 pm

    Presumably it’s loaded with silicones? The volatile cyclopentasiloxane evaporates leaving dimethicone and a talc-like feeling?

    Cyclopentasiloxane looks like it’s going to be banned in the EU btw so are there other options? https://www.obelis.net/blog/cyclopentasiloxane-d5-and-cyclotetrasiloxane-d4-restricted-in-the-eu/

    My ingredient guesstimates:

    >50% Water

    10% Glycolic Acid (alpha hydroxy acid/exfoliant)

    5-10% Cyclopentasiloxane (hydration), Dimethicone (hydration)

    3-5% Glycerin (hydration/skin replenishing)

    2-3% Glyceryl Stearate (texture-enhancing), Stearic Acid (texture-enhancing), Cetyl Alcohol (texture-enhancing), Butyrospermum Parkii (shea butter/emollient/antioxidant), Sodium Hydroxide (pH adjuster), PEG-100 Stearate (texture-enhancing)

    < 1% Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (stabilized vitamin C/antioxidant), Tocopheryl Acetate (vitamin E/antioxidant), Chamomilla Recutita Matricaria Flower Extract (chamomile extract/skin-soothing), Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil (grape extract/non-fragrant oil/emollient/antioxidant), Camellia Oleifera Extract (green tea extract/antioxidant), Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract (willow herb extract (skin-soothing), Allantoin (skin-soothing), Butylene Glycol (hydration), Xanthan Gum (texture-enhancing), Disodium EDTA (stabilizer), sodium benzoate (preservative), phenoxyethanol (preservative).

    emma1985 replied 4 years, 3 months ago 3 Members · 4 Replies
  • 4 Replies
  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    November 20, 2020 at 10:25 pm

    Does it feel moisturizing right away or after some time?

  • Zink

    Member
    November 21, 2020 at 1:05 pm

    It’s the after effect minutes after application I’m interested in, a lot of AHA lotions will make your skin -feel- dry after.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    November 21, 2020 at 6:01 pm

    I make pretty generic glycolic acid toner and it has the same effect (ph 3.7). I thought it’s because of humectants (I add 7% of either butylene glycol or glycerin).

  • emma1985

    Member
    November 22, 2020 at 7:56 pm

    Glycolic Acid is said to be a humectant.. Stearic Acid is occlusive/film forming. Dimethicone is occlusive. Glycerin and Butylene Glycol are effective humectants. Personally I think Shea Butter is one of the most moisturizing ingredients ever. So it’s a combination of everything.

Log in to reply.

Chemists Corner