Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Sub for biosaccharide gum-1 ?

  • Sub for biosaccharide gum-1 ?

    Posted by komirra on December 8, 2017 at 8:22 pm

    I want to make a duplicate of a conditioner that has biosaccharide gum-1 in it. From what I know about this hair conditioner, it seems like it is being used to provide slip and thickness to the conditioner. I however can’t seem to find it anywhere that a homecrafter can get it. I have used CETAC-30 before in a conditioner for detangling, but alone it isn’t enough. my hair is SUPER tangly and dry lol. so I want to explore other things to use with it to provide detangling. 

    This is the whole LOI. 

    Water/aqua/eau, behentrimonium methosulfate, cetearyl alcohol, acetyl esters, Orbygnia speciosa *(babassu) nut oil, biosaccharide gum-1, Euterpe(acai)pulp oil, sodium PCA, sodium lactate, arginine, aspartic acid, PCA, glycine, alanine, serene, valine, proline, threonine, isoleucine, histidine, phenylalanine, Orbignya speciosa kernel oil, Astrocaryum murumuru butter, Pentaclethra macroloba (pracaxi) seed oil, *Rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) leaf extract, *Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil, dehydroacetic acid, Lavandula agustifolia (lavender) flower oil, Pelargonium graveolens (geranium) flower/leaf oil Salvia officials (sage) leaf oil, *Mentha piperita (peppermint) leaf oil, *citrus paradise(Pink Grapefruit) peel oil, *Litsea cubeba (litsea cubeba) fruit oil, *Mentha (spearmint) leaf oil, Benzyl alcohol

    any suggestions?
    komirra replied 6 years, 11 months ago 3 Members · 6 Replies
  • 6 Replies
  • belassi

    Member
    December 8, 2017 at 9:03 pm

    There’s really only five ingredients, the rest is all marketing puff. The BTMS is the conditioner. If you particularly want that gum, you can probably import a kilo from China without too much trouble.

  • DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ

    Member
    December 9, 2017 at 12:09 am

    For detangling use cationic guar or merquat 550.

  • komirra

    Member
    December 9, 2017 at 12:51 am

    @DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ
    Cat guar is a good suggestion. That is something i can get a hold of. I’m kinda stuck on how to use if though to be honest. what do you have to bring the pH down to to make it usable? do I need to bring the pH down before or after the emulsion? also how much would you reccomend to start with for a rinse off conditioner, .3%?

    @Belassi
    yes i have recongized that most of it is just fluff. but many users have claimed it is very detangling. so I assumed the gum was important. I’m not stuck on that one, just a good substitute that could provide detangling.

  • belassi

    Member
    December 9, 2017 at 3:07 am

    Look, I’m not a conditioner expert, mainly I don’t make one because I can’t get all the ingredients I would need. But basically, to make a good conditioner, you need two things: detangling and conditioning. Usually it is easy enough to get a detangler such as cetrimonium chloride. Or behentrimonium or some such. But you need something like BTMS to also get a conditioning  effect. Swiftcraftymonkey’s blog has quite a lot of info on this.
    The gum, from what I can find, is a film-former. As such it will be “catonified” by the BTMS and help make the hair shine, also trap moisture and reduce water loss from the cortex. I would substitute Polyquart H-81 condensed resin for this job. Or a dispersible silicone, but that would be a lot more expensive.

  • DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ

    Member
    December 9, 2017 at 3:05 pm

    @komirra Use 0.5% wt/wt and adjust Ph at the end.

  • komirra

    Member
    December 9, 2017 at 8:30 pm

    thanks!

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