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Dihydroxyacetone
How can you use DHA in its powder form? Will it work?
Best Regards,
Victoria Yepez -
7 Replies
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You will dissolve it into a solvent. It is heat sensitive and usually added at the end of the process.
- The final formulation pH must be below 5 for DHA stability.
- Avoid incompatible ingredients, especially those that contain
nitrogen; go beyond the INCI name and look at the full spectrum of
compounds in the raw ingredient, since even trace amounts of these
materials can cause problems. - When creating emulsions, add DHA as if it were any other sensitive
ingredient—i.e., at the end of the compounding process to avoid contact
with heat. - Evaluate stored DHA periodically to check for degradation. Using a
raw material that has degraded can cause variability in formulation
stability and color development. - Evaluate extracts and other formulation additives in solutions of
DHA prior to creating full formulations to rule out incompatibilities.
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@Microformulation I would like to use it as a powder mixed with another powder will this not work? I have to dissolve it in a solvent?
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It would not be very effective in a powder product. If you study the fundamentals of DHA and the Maillard reaction, this will become obvious. It penetrates the very outer layers of the skin and reacts with proteins to cause browning. For this to occur it must be in a solvent. Generally the challenge with DHA is demands for darker and faster. You will not achieve any significant browning.
No offense, but this is why you start with the basics, learn how a raw material works and look at starting Formulas easily available from the suppliers. We have to do our homework!
https://chemistscorner.com/self-tanning-cosmetic-formulation-basics/
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@Mircoformualtion Thanks. I guess I am looking for an innovative solution as to how I can achieve the impossible. It does work as a dimmer in its powder form but its just not as affective. Thanks again.
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You’re welcome. I have done almost 100 of this DHA products in my lifetime. One of my first clients when I went into Consulting was a large self-tanner company and they hired me to update their Formulas which were at that time over 10 years old.
The frustration in this Market is that during the R&D period they want darker (more DHA) and faster (not possible as the Maillard reaction works at it’s own pace). You can add Erythrulose to make the tan more natural looking (less brown with red contrast) or add Caramel (immediate Cosmetic browning). With these “tricks” they will “begrudgingly” accept your Formulation. Then they go into pricing and suddenly it becomes “we need it too be X dollars per gallon” in order for our clients to buy it. Interestingly enough this is also a sector where “natural” or “organic” hasn’t taken hold. The end user simply wants performance and for the most part cares little about those issues. Several “organic” spray tans have been introduced and due to price have flopped spectacularly.
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I am confused as to what effect are you expecting the DHA to have.
What do you mean by “It does work as a dimmer in its powder form but its just not as affective.”
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I also have a question and not a reply - I want to make my own tanning solution and was wondering how much DHA I would use in a gallon for an 8 percent tan. Would it be 8 percent powder to a gallon? If so what is that amount? I’m terrible at fractions. ????Thx so much for your time.
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