Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Hair Disulfide Bond restructuring product - Olaplex

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  • Disulfide Bond restructuring product - Olaplex

    Posted by CLiCS4U on March 13, 2016 at 3:52 am
    Hi, I was wondering if anyone on this forum has heard about this new product in the hair industry. This is not marketed as a stand alone treatment but rather an additive for hair color and other chemical services, that keeps the hair from breaking during and after the service.
    I have always known the disulfide bonds could be chemically broken and re structured but that was with perms and straighteners. Hence, the neutralizer. Hair color doesn’t break bonds, although over processing can certainly cause damage, but I guess my question is could this product “repair” broken disulfide bonds in hair? The claim is that the product- finds- and attaches the single bonds back together to make a whole bond again.
    Does anyone have an information on this? much thanks!
     
    The complete ingredient list for the finished product(s) is as follows:  IDENTITY BIS-AMINOPROPYL DIGLYCOL DIMALEATE WATER PHENOXYETHANOL
    SODIUM BENZOATE
    CAS NO. 1629579-82-3 7732-18-5 122-99-6
    532-32-1
    TLV % 15-30  not established  70-85  not established 0.70  Skin Irrit. 2, H315         Eye Irrit. 2B, H320 0.30  Eye Irrit. 2B, H320
    Kbose replied 8 years, 8 months ago 4 Members · 5 Replies
  • 5 Replies
  • David

    Member
    March 13, 2016 at 8:26 pm
  • CLiCS4U

    Member
    March 14, 2016 at 12:03 am
    great article. Thanks!
  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    March 15, 2016 at 9:15 pm

    FYI - I witnessed their large loud presentation at ABS in Chicago yesterday.  “7 patents, 300,000 salons, 23 countries..” yada, yada, yada.  Though mainly sold & used for oxidative hair coloring techniques “to restore disulfide bonds”, they also claim it works with alkaline relaxers, which results in lanthionization, so like my esteemed colleague Randy S, I am skeptical. Also, they did warn of the need to use less, not more.  My read on that: this big molecule will displace/inhibit the smaller dye intermediate molecules during the dying process, resulting in less dye uptake.  But, it DOES sell like crazy. These guys are minting money with this product and it shows up in numerous salon technique procedures now.

  • CLiCS4U

    Member
    March 22, 2016 at 12:58 am

    Hi there…Chemicalmatt,

    Yes, I am skeptical too, but the hairdresser community swears by this product. To me, I think it can be helpful when bleaching or lightening the hair because it acts as a buffer leaving the hair in better condition. With that said, they say to increase the peroxide strength when using this in the mixture which does in fact indicate a certain degree of dilution and/or effectiveness of the bleach.
    I think you may be on to something by stating that the bigger molecule will actually inhibit dye uptake, that will cause increased fading in darker hair colors. However, they are selling it like crazy.
    I’m working with a chemist that says you can use other ingredients to achieve similar results that does not take any additional time to process, Thoughts?
  • Kbose

    Member
    March 30, 2016 at 8:15 pm

    I’m a hairstylist. I only use this product in my bleach. I’m seeing less damage, but it’s not what others are swearing by. It does take longer to process. The more you mix in, the longer it takes. Then you have the 2nd part of it that you apply and let sit for however long you wish. The directions are less than helpful. We felt that we had to play around with it and figure out what works for us. I felt like they made it, tested it, but didn’t really set a lot of boundaries, or directions or anything for us stylists. It was more of a “Here’s this. It’s new. Nothing else like it. Mix it in and see great results.” but no other information for a few months. Others are perming bleached hair with Olaplex, and I don’t have enough faith in the product to do such a thing. The more I mix in my bleach the better the results (longer the process).  You can do stand alone treatments, and I have found that you have to use more to really see results. The say on the instructions to use a lot of the #2 Bond Perfector and the Take Home product is a small bottle and the instructions are not very clear, and state to use a lot as well. A lot of hair stylists are using it, and still over processing and really damaging hair.  It’s suppose to allow us to push the envelope a little bit more. I have used it in a demi color, and hated it. I’m not 100% for it or against it. I don’t think it does as well as what everyone is saying. And I think a lot of the good results we are seeing isn’t just Olaplex, as much as it is the treatments they are using during the whole process. Olaplex, protein treatments, hydrating masks, etc.

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