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Basic Salicylic Acid Peel/Toner Recipe Question, Please . . .
Hi, all.
Question, please.I have tried to make a very basic peel using salicylic acid dissolved in ethanol, and then adding water and glycerin to that, followed by a bit of sodium bicarbonate to adjust the pH.After the SA is mixed into the ethanol, it is clear (all of this is done at room temperature), but when I add the other ingredients, it becomes a cloudy, uneven mess. Any suggestions? Perhaps I am adding the ingredients in the wrong order?Thank you. -
11 Replies
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How much water are you adding? Try adding propylene glycol instead
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And a surfactant like sodium cocoamphoacetate would help too along with propylene glycol.
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You’re adding too much water and maybe too much sodium bicarbonate.
As mentioned above, I’d use propylene glycol or 1,3-Propanediol instead of ethanol as ethanol is very drying to the skin.(1) Dissolve the SA in PG … heat always helps, unless you are specifically shooting for a cold process.(2) Combine the glycerin and water. Add 1% sodium citrate to this to help solublize the SA.(3) Slowly add the SA/PG mixture to the water mixture. (Again, I would recommend heating both mixtures).(4) Add sodium bicarbonate to adjust the pH to 3.5What concentration of SA are you targeting for your peel?It would help if you gave the percentages of your ingredients for additional guidance. -
I am trying not to use PG as it’s a known irritant.
What about ethoxydiglycol? I guess SA dissolves well inside of it?-1-My first goal was to re-create the Skinceuticals Gel peel (with 20-25% SA) but use as few ingredients as possible. Following is the ingredient list:Ethoxydiglycol, Salicylic Acid, Water, Glycerin, Laureth-23, Vinegar, Apricot Extract, Peach Fruit extract, Apple Fruit Extract, Polysorbate 80, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxypropylcellulose, Bisabolol, Sodium HydroxideQuestion is: do I really need the Laureth-23 or Vinegar? Can I make the recipe with just the ingredients in bold?-2-Second recipe would be for a simple toner. Ideally, something like: Ethoxydiglycol, Salicylic Acid (3%), Water, Sodium HydroxideThank you. -
Salicylic acid is soluble in diols, please try 1,2 - hexandiol as a solvent or try hexylene glycol. Be careful, as excess use of Salicylic acid cause dryness of skin.
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Laureth 23 acts as a solubilizing agent but you are already going to use solubilizer for SA so that no need to use L-23.
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I am not an expert in dissolving SA, but I think MarkBroussard gave you useful info- use it!
PG is not a known irritant. -
ok Let me try to analyze the formula of skinceuticals.
Ethoxydiglycol - more than 25% obviously, may be around 30-50% Ethoxydiglycol is soluble in ethanol, propylene glycol, vegetable oils, water, and butylene glycol
Salicylic 20-25%
Water less than 20% ok lets do 20%
Glycerin 4-8%
Laureth-23 - Typical use is 1-5% - White Waxy Solid - high HLB emulsifier used in oil-in-water emulsions
Some extracts usually extracts is about 0.5%-2%
Polysorbate 80 - emulsifier Recommended usage level: 1-20%. here I’m guessing about 1-2%
Vinegar - I’m guessing pH adjuster - to make it acidic (final product should be pH 4-6)
Hydroxypropylcellulose - aqueous thickening agent- you can replace with Hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC) about 1% to give you a clear gel like solution
Bisabolol - color viscous oil soluble in ethanol, ethanol is soluble in Ethoxydiglycol so I guess it’s soluble in Ethoxydiglycol. It’s fragrance so I guess you can replace with EOs that are compatible with SA.
Sodium Hydroxide - pH adjuster - to make it more alkaline (final product should be pH 4-6)You can make a few small batches. Only through trial and errors you can imitate a commercial products.
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If you want to sell it. you might want to check that anything that’s patented or trademarked. I just enjoy analyzing commercial formulas for fun.
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last but not least Phenoxyethanol for preservative about 1% best for pH 3-6
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