Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Skin Hylauronic Acid freely penetrates the human skin?

  • Hylauronic Acid freely penetrates the human skin?

    Posted by kot on February 19, 2015 at 4:29 am

    Perry, in one of the modules you’ve mentioned that the Hylauronic Acid is not doing much for the skin as it is a large molecule and cannot penetrate, i have come accross this and would appreciate your opinion, please. Thank you, Irina. 

    “Hylauronic Acid freely penetrates the human skin in healthy volunteers
    & may be used as a vehicle to carry other ingredients deep into the human
    dermis

    b) Ageing skin loses Hylauronic acid until non is present age 60, skin
    moisture level reduces with loss of elasticity causing lines and wrinkles.
    Water causes a rise in extra cellular fluid giving smooth moist skin.

    gfeldman replied 9 years, 9 months ago 6 Members · 7 Replies
  • 7 Replies
  • Bobzchemist

    Member
    February 19, 2015 at 3:18 pm

    “b” is completely correct

    but “a”, not so much. HA isn’t an acid like sulfuric or Lactic, with a fixed MW. Hyaluronic acid is actually a polymer, so…

    I’ve heard that lower MW versions can penetrate skin, but I don’t think I believe that.
  • OldPerry

    Member
    February 19, 2015 at 5:15 pm

    Bob is right.  I’ve seen no evidence that Hyaluronic acid can penetrate the skin.  

  • braveheart

    Member
    February 21, 2015 at 8:11 pm

    @Bob and @Perry, 
    You mean SLMW & ULMW would not penetrate?

    What about studies such as these:
    with this and this?
    I am interested in your opinions.
  • OldPerry

    Member
    February 22, 2015 at 12:04 am

    @braveheart - I can only see the abstracts of these but the first study had the whole study.  Here’s what I think.

    1.  The first & second studies were done on cell culture lines (as far as I can tell)  The tell us nothing about whether the  molecule penetrates the skin or not.
    2.  The third study demonstrates the HA is a moisturizer.  They don’t compare it to other moisturizers that are superior.
    3.  I can’t tell from the fourth study whether HA penetrated to the dermis just (according to them) deeper into the epidermis.  
    So, I’m still looking for data demonstrating the HA penetrates to the Dermis
  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    February 22, 2015 at 12:36 am

    Here’s a published article relevant to this discussion:

  • OldPerry

    Member
    February 22, 2015 at 1:27 pm

    @MarkBroussard - thanks for the link.  It appears I’m mistaken.  HA does seem to penetrate the skin (at least when applied directly to the skin in a 1.3% solution).

    Now, does it penetrate the skin when surrounded by emulsifiers, emollients, humectants and occlusives found in most skin lotions?
    And what effect does the direct application have on skin?
  • gfeldman

    Member
    February 26, 2015 at 5:31 pm

    @markbroussard Interesting article, thank you for sharing.

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