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Hair Styling Emulsified-Gel
Hi Forum!I feel a little intimidated posting on here because I’m just an enthusiast getting my education towards becoming a Cosmetic Chemist. I do formulate (mainly for myself and a close friend) and have an OK inventory of raw materials.I have curly hair and normally I use two separate products to do my hair: a carbomer based hair gel and a hair cream. I mix them together in my hand and apply it to my hair. It occurred to me today that I should formulate something that is both products in one, but I’m not sure where to begin for the gel part.I know that Carbomer 940 doesn’t play well with salt or cationics. So I know for the cream I can’t use quat. ammonium salts (I was thinking of using BTMS or CTAB for the cream). The cream based product I use has ammonium salts.I have INCI: Acrylates C10-30 alkyl methacrylate copolymer.I can get a hold of INCI: Sodium acrylate, acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, isohexadecane, polysorbate 80.I can also get a hold of INCI: Carbopol Ultrez 20So my question, how would I be able to get the hold I get from the hair gel AND the moisture/softness from the cream product?Thank you for your time!CosChemFan -
2 Replies
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There are conditioning agents such as Polyquart H81 that are pseudo-cationic and you might also try a water-dispersible silicone such as Silsense DW-18, to get the conditioning effects you want at the same time as not upsetting the ionic balance of the carbomer. Having said that, you might want to use Aqua SF-20 as the carbomer because it is able to tolerate a lower pH more suitable for the hair and scalp.
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Hello @Belassi!I must say that you have become one of my favorite members on this forum. Your post are always so insightful, thank you for responding.I appreciate the material suggestions, but I can’t find a source for them (I would LOVE to try Polyquart H81) as I’m just a…hobbyist I guess you would call it. When I got no feedback I just went for it and made a test batch of the product using carbomer and PVP for hold with Glyceryl Stearate & PEG 100 Stearate as the emulsifier. I got the p.H. to 5.35 and everything is stable so far. I added some Peg-8 Dimethicone for slip and moisture and PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate for shine and as an emollient.I tried some of it out on my hair and my hair looked great and had a lot of hold. Almost too much hold. My hair felt dry and crunchy which subsided after 3 days of letting it wear. But that wasn’t quite what I was going for. It also leaves a bit of a greasy residue, which could be from the 10% of oils I added. I’m going to tweak the formula and try another batch tomorrow with a different polymer and emulsifier.Question, I know pH is important to hair care, but I’m aware that there are products on the market for hair that don’t have a p.H. between 4-5.5 (many hair gels) and are still popular. Do you have any thoughts on this?Sidenote: Sorry for my lengthy post. There so much information that I want to pick from the members of this forums brains haha.Regards,CosChemFan
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