Improving my anti-acne gel.

Skin

Improving my anti-acne gel.

Posted by belassi on December 9, 2014 at 11:14 pm

3 months or so ago, I designed an anti-acne gel. It is nothing like the treatments in the USA because, thank heavens, I don’t have to deal with the dead hands of the FDA.

It has four functions:

1. Kill the acne propionis bacteria.

2. Promote wound healing.

3. Anti-inflammatory.

4. Control the production of sebum.

(2) and (3) are working perfectly and we’re seeing a dramatic improvement in our testers.

Our testers reported that existing spots dried and healed quickly, and skin tone improved a lot.

However, although reduced, new spots still appeared.

This tells me that I probably need better penetration into the skin and that I should increase the sebum control % a little.

My question is, this is a gel, it has no lipids because lipid control is key. How can I increase skin penetration? I think we have a winning product but it needs a little more work. No benzoyl peroxide! Hurray!

belassi replied 9 years, 11 months ago 6 Members · 21 Replies
21 Replies

yongnn30

Member
December 10, 2014 at 1:14 am

@Belassi… i’ve heard about actives that help skin penetration for gel based..it’s from AVARES… but unfortunately I forget the actives …I’ll try to asked sales rep. and come back to you soon
belassi

Member
December 10, 2014 at 1:42 am

Thanks. Appreciated. (4) is Sebaryl, I wonder if anyone else here has any experience of that?
Chemist77

Member
December 10, 2014 at 1:47 am

@Belassi

http://www.gattefosse.com/en/applications/?administration-route,topical,solubilizers-skin-penetration-enhancers
nasrins

Member
December 10, 2014 at 2:14 am

@belassi why dont u comment your formula?
yongnn30

Member
December 10, 2014 at 2:38 am

@Belassi..Sebaryl info for you

http://www.bsibusiness.com/uploads/product_ls/pdf/136_pdf.pdf

My lab senior use the material to cure oily scalp in Hair Tonic but he end up with finished product colour change issue
yongnn30

Member
December 10, 2014 at 2:42 am

great @milliachemist…your comment reminds me to Transcutol from Gatte Fosse.. transcutol also helps carry actives into skin… maybe you can try transcutol in your formula @belassi while waiting Averes reply me
Chemist77

Member
December 10, 2014 at 3:02 am

@yongnn30 Yup you are bang on money, its a very old solvent but very known one.
Chemist77

Member
December 10, 2014 at 3:02 am

@yongnn30 Yup you are bang on money, its a very old solvent but very known one.
belassi

Member
December 10, 2014 at 11:04 am

@nasrins: I am usually pretty free with publishing formulae, but this one is a bit commercially sensitive possibly.

I’m using 3% Sebaryl right now. I think I will increase the dosage to 4%. And I think I will double the percentage of the thyme botanical that’s responsible for the bactericidal action.

I checked all these Gattefosse ingredients but they are for water-insoluble actives. All my actives are water based. (They are all botanicals). We have a very large number of plant extracts available to us in Mexico and I have had success using them.
belassi

Member
December 10, 2014 at 6:30 pm

I have found something that’s regarded as completely harmless and in fact allowed in food, that enhances skin penetration. Glyceryl triacetate. Now to find where I can get some…
braveheart

Member
December 27, 2014 at 10:38 am

I think you might be able to make your own tricetin.

Glycerine + Acetic acid + Acetic anhydrous.

See: http://www.ippe.com/plants/600496/triacetin.pdf
belassi

Member
December 27, 2014 at 3:08 pm

Cool! I’ll have to put in a bid for that plant! (Laughing)

Seriously, I miss doing reaction chemistry. Bang! Boom! Lights, colours, smells! Oh Joy!
braveheart

Member
January 16, 2015 at 8:15 am

@Belassi, I was looking at better ways of improving my formulation and remembered this thread and started reading up on GTA, then I saw this: http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/21474353 …. Perhaps, you should consider Chinese suppliers. If the high dosage of GTA in babies is deemed safe, then this might a very good enhancement.
belassi

Member
January 16, 2015 at 1:05 pm

Hilarious! I searched for GTA on EBay and this came up!

After researching sources, it seems pretty expensive stuff, say $400 per kilo, so I think I’ll forget about this.
braveheart

Member
January 16, 2015 at 1:27 pm

Does that discourage or encourage you, Belassi?

I checked the list of ingredients on that page and saw this ingredient, Panthenyl Triacetate; Is that the same as GTA?

Personally, I don’t like some of the chemicals/ingredients on that list and would pass by it, as I feels some of the ingredients are not skin-friendly.

One of the key components of a successful product is gaining the trust of its users (or potential users) and that is also largely dependent on public perception, not just the chemistry.

I have working on my anti-acne cream/lotion/gel for a little while now and, Belassi, I am looking forward to your anti-acne gel on the market shelf as well.
belassi

Member
January 16, 2015 at 2:01 pm

I really dislike treatments like that one. Anything with benzoyl peroxide = old fashioned, harsh, nasty stuff.
braveheart

Member
January 16, 2015 at 2:08 pm

Typos and typos and lots of typos! Sigh!

I feel more like an expert writer now

“I have (been) working on my anti-acne cream/lotion/gel for a little while now and,”
Kirk

Member
January 22, 2015 at 4:30 am

@Belassi Perhaps you can try Ammoniated Glycyrrhizin by Mafco Worldwide Corporation. Try this link for more info.
belassi

Member
January 22, 2015 at 5:39 am

Kirk, thanks for that. They’re in New Jersey. It is not inconceivable that I can import some. I’ve sent them a sample request. Great idea. Looks very interesting.
Kirk

Member
January 22, 2015 at 5:58 am

Have you also tried Tea Tree Oil for your anti acne gel?
belassi

Member
January 22, 2015 at 3:05 pm

I haven’t tried it yet but I am going to, which is why I’ve been experimenting with solubilising tea tree oil.