Forum Replies Created

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  • fareloz

    Member
    November 21, 2023 at 3:35 am in reply to: ascorbic acid serum?

    why is this one stabile?

    Is it? Have you ever had it? How long did it take for you to spoil? Based on the reviews I’ve seen on the Internet it is not stable.

    From the INCI I see they use Sodium Sulfite as an antioxidant that should keep AA stable, but I doubt it does it for long time (since there is 23% of AA). They might also have very acidic pH, below 3, that helps to have AA not protonated and therefore more stable in water.

    If you want to make an AA serum you can go several ways:

    1. Skinceuticals formula, where Ascorbic Acid is paired with Ferulic acid and mixed Tocopherols and most of the water replaced with Ethoxydiglycol. (you can read up on it here or on the internet).

    This formula is used in many other famous products too: Timeless, Geek & Gorgeous etc.

    2. Waterless formula. The main problem is water, if you remove it - the solution will be much more stable. There are several ways, one is to get dispersion of AA in silicones, like The Ordinary does with 30% AA cream and L’oreal with 10% small tube. But this is hard to achieve in DIY setup.

    3. Waterless formula with Propanediol (not propylene glycol). You can get 12% of AA + 88% pf Propanediol solution or if you add Urea you can get up to 20% of AA in Propanediol+Urea (the product is Matter of Facts serum)

    4. Do fresh batch frequently. There are some DIY suggestions to make a tiny batch once in few days and store it in the fridge in opaque bottle. If you have scales and all you need to to mix AA with water it is not as bothersome.

  • fareloz

    Member
    November 20, 2023 at 1:34 pm in reply to: Mineral Oil replacement

    Depends on what property of mineral oil you want to mimic. Cetiol CC (Dicaprylyl Carbonate) can be used as a liquid lightweight emolient, or Hydrogenated Polyisobutene if you want good occlusion

  • fareloz

    Member
    November 20, 2023 at 3:31 am in reply to: What are some examples of “antioxidant stabilizing agents” . . . ?

    Ferulic acid. Combination of AA + mixed tocopherols + Ferulic acid is very famous due to L’oreal Skinceuticals patent Note that they replace a lot of water with Ethoxydiglycol. The actual problem of AA oxidation is water, so if you make a waterless solution (e.g. Propanediol 90% + 10% AA) you won’t have as much oxidation as in water.

    • fareloz

      Member
      November 20, 2023 at 3:36 am in reply to: What are some examples of “antioxidant stabilizing agents” . . . ?

      BUT! I should mention that the study you provided is poorly designed. Only 12 females (almost like Garnier’s 9 out of 10 women on the jar), not statistically significant. Also, the study is blinded for the participants, but not double-blinded, the conductors know which area is treated with which product (or placebo). So I would not trust it.

      Unfortunately, there are not reliable (with proper design: double- or triple-blinded, correct placebo, done on statistically relevant set of humans - different ages, genders, races, correct number of participants) studies of AA out there.

  • fareloz

    Member
    November 13, 2023 at 6:00 am in reply to: Massage Cream

    Silicones and HEC

  • fareloz

    Member
    November 9, 2023 at 3:12 am in reply to: questions about xanthan gum

    Can you change the order and pour water phase into oil phase instead? Then you don’t have to scrape xanthan gum.

  • fareloz

    Member
    November 1, 2023 at 6:39 am in reply to: Comments on New forum design / software

    Too many spam messages lately. Looks like some filtering mechanism is required, like do not let new users post the first message/topic before it is reviewed.

    Or some AI that analyzes spam ????

  • fareloz

    Member
    October 23, 2023 at 2:52 am in reply to: Pentylene Glycol as a solubolizer?

    Depends on the ratio between water\pentylene glycol\oil. In commercial products I see they usually use polysorbate 20 for this in toners.

  • fareloz

    Member
    October 12, 2023 at 8:23 am in reply to: Introducing Cosmex AI - AI Productivity Tools For Cosmetic Chemists

    Is any demo available for humble DIYers? I am not a chemist, but I like DIY skincare. I am also a software developer, so this project seems interesting to try from my professional perspective too!

  • fareloz

    Member
    October 5, 2023 at 6:52 am in reply to: Alcohol soluble fixatives (for perfumes)

    I see regularly Diethylphtalate in “parfumer’s alcohol” or “diffuser liquid” mixtures.

  • fareloz

    Member
    October 2, 2023 at 2:28 am in reply to: Queries about cream formulation

    Not sure about actual production, but in DIY you set it off with open lid for a night to cool down and gain final viscosity

  • fareloz

    Member
    September 29, 2023 at 3:56 am in reply to: Ceteareth 25 vs Hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC) for Gel

    To me gel-like feeling give polymers, like Lecigel, Sepimax Zen, Aristoflex AVC etc.

  • fareloz

    Member
    September 28, 2023 at 5:20 am in reply to: Carbomer gel in Polyethylene glycol

    Is it really possible to make a gel without water? My assumption is your mixture just attracts water from the air and that’s why it is so slow.

  • fareloz

    Member
    September 26, 2023 at 2:49 am in reply to: Struggling to get ascorbic acid to dissolve in C/E/ferulic acid serum

    They claimed that ascorbic acid can dissolve in propylene glycol at up to 17% (uh, citation needed…).

    It’s true, I’ve seen some patent stating that. The solubility in propylene glycol can increase in presence of Urea.

    how on earth are you all (and the brains behind the patented C/E/F formula) managing to dissolve 20% ascorbic acid in a serum that has less than 50% water

    Are we? Skinceuticals sell 15% formula. Lotioncrafter states 15%. It’s only you who tweaked the formula to get 20% ????

  • fareloz

    Member
    August 31, 2023 at 5:56 am in reply to: Powder foam hand soap | Dry formulation

    Try to check powdered face washes. They often use clays and starches

  • fareloz

    Member
    August 31, 2023 at 5:54 am in reply to: Mould on moisturizer

    Preservation also depends on preservative content (how much it in?). pH. chelators. manufacturing condition (if contamination load is heavy in the facility - no preservative will handle this)

  • fareloz

    Member
    November 27, 2023 at 3:00 am in reply to: How is this possible?? The Ordinary-Multi-Peptide Eye Serum

    I can say Niacinamide 10% or 0.01% ???? Just tested 2 solutions, the one with 10% gives me a flush

  • fareloz

    Member
    November 22, 2023 at 9:40 am in reply to: Insights on formulation and silicone-free oil for hair

    If you ask about Benzyl Salicylate then it is a fragrance additive I think

  • fareloz

    Member
    November 20, 2023 at 6:00 am in reply to: Please give some advice on this shampoo formulation

    It is not a shampoo, it is soap. And ads of your company.

  • fareloz

    Member
    November 9, 2023 at 8:23 am in reply to: questions about xanthan gum

    This is false. This rumor comes from the name oil-in-water (and some people think that oil-in-water == oil-to-water). In reality the emulsion you get depends on emulsifier you use.

  • fareloz

    Member
    November 7, 2023 at 3:39 am in reply to: Can I combine two preservatives?

    As I see on this forum, the mix is usually used because only one agent rarely covers all kind of spoilage (bacteria, mold or yeast).

    For example in this thread: https://chemistscorner.com/cosmeticsciencetalk/discussion/euxyl-pe-9010-use-in-water-based-products/

    mentioned that Euxyl PE9010 alone has a gap in antifungal efficacy for relevantly susceptible products.

  • fareloz

    Member
    October 12, 2023 at 4:01 am in reply to: Niacinamide Crystals?

    Zinc Oxide is not soluble in water

  • fareloz

    Member
    September 26, 2023 at 9:24 am in reply to: Struggling to get ascorbic acid to dissolve in C/E/ferulic acid serum

    I don’t think adding urea (another super finicky ingredient) is the solution I’m looking for

    It’s not a suggested solution, just a remark from the same patent where solubility in PG is mentioned. The whole patent was about increasing solubility in PG using Urea.

    If you want to have a source about PG solubility, here is the patent: https://patents.google.com/patent/US20070077261A1/en

    It says:

    It was also determined that in a composition comprising, by weight, 17% ascorbic acid and 83% propylene glycol prepared by heating the mixture at 75.degree. C., the ascorbic acid was soluble under this experimental condition. This result is consistent with the solubility data disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 6,361,783.

  • fareloz

    Member
    September 26, 2023 at 9:17 am in reply to: Struggling to get ascorbic acid to dissolve in C/E/ferulic acid serum

    We don’t know their formula, mostly sure they just use enough water.

    We know only formulas from Lotioncrafter and L’Oreal’s patent for CEF serum. And they don’t go over 15%.

  • fareloz

    Member
    August 29, 2023 at 1:49 am in reply to: Min-Max Glycerin in leave in hair product

    Maybe not glycerin but other humectant, like propylene glycol?

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