[jemolian]

What are the steps and phases?

[jemolian]

You can consider trying a less thickening emulsifier like graillotion mentioned. It depends on your choice, you can go with 165, or Montanov L or 202. Maybe you can also consider adding more humectants that has a different skin feel like Betaine.

[jemolian]

Probably the combination of surfactants are not suitable. Can’t comment too much about the essential oil, some people might break out from having oils in their cleanser as well, so it’s something that you will need to figure out.

[jemolian]

What aspects of “wrong” are you trying to ask about?

[jemolian]

What does your 100% concentration refer to? That the total formula should add to 100%? or the purity of the xanthan or glycerin should be 100%?

[jemolian]

If it’s a lower quantity, perhaps you can purchase from a repacker, myskinrecipes has both and can ship internationally.

[jemolian]

The phases look reasonable, but the matcha may cause some issues, so you can consider taking it out if you find that it oxidizes too quickly.

[jemolian]

The xanthan gum + glycerin + panthenol may be a sticky combo, so you might want to test it out. If you are using 1.5% hyaluronic acid, you may not need that much additional xanthan gum.

The vitamin c may not be in the compatible pH range with the niacinamide, so you will have to consider the choice of vitamin c.

[jemolian]

You can take a look at this article https://www.ulprospector.com/knowledge/9837/pcc-how-to-improve-the-bioavailability-and-efficacy-of-skin-care-actives/

[jemolian]

If the percentage is low enough, Aristoflex AVC would still be able to work fine.

I see that there’s AcquaCell in there? It works fine at 1% with AVC based on what I’ve tested since I’m still using the sample from time to time.

AcquaCell - INCI: Water (and) Glycerin (and) Citrullus Lanatus (Watermelon) Fruit Extract (and) Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract (and) Lens Esculenta (Lentil) Fruit Extract (and) Sodium Lactate (and) Sodium PCA

[jemolian]

You can consider it a refattening agent. The glucoside in the blend can be used for a few purposes as mentioned in the description, which can include solubilizing the glyceryl oleate, replacing a part of other surfactants, etc.

For the 1.7% in 5% usage rate, it would mean that the glucoside is about 34% in the blend. If we go by the rough ASM that some coco glucosides might have, about 55%, then the ASM might be 18.7%. You can see if you have access to the SDS or other materials to confirm if the info is correct.

[jemolian]

Are there a lot of cationic gelling agents that are available from repackers? I think the only one i saw was Cosmedia Ultragel 300 (Inci: Polyquaternium-37) unless i missed out.

[jemolian]

It can also depend on the co-stability ingredients like polymers / gelling agents, etc.

If you are using a self bodying / thickening emulsifier blend, it depends on how much viscosity you need and if it’s able to stabilize the formula.

[jemolian]

If you just want to add the butters, you might want to check if the emulsifier blend can support the percentage of lipids you want to use. Some might not.

[jemolian]

What is the process you used to make this, what is the batch size and the tools used?

[jemolian]

Depends on your budget, you can get the Misceo one.

[jemolian]

https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetics-labeling-regulations/cosmetics-labeling-guide#clgl9

[jemolian]

Maybe you can go with the most traditional, Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG 100 Stearate. Not sure how well it will do as I’ve not tested making a conditioner with that yet.

[jemolian]

Did you continue stirring while the hyaluronic acid hydrates? Just wondering about that.

[jemolian]

Sodium lactate should also be fine but i didn’t suggest it because I’m not sure how electrolyte sensitive the emulsifier blends are, and if they may go overboard with it. Does it also produce a film on the surface like Betaine does? I find that it’s more penetrative or deeply hydrating instead.

• This reply was modified 1 month, 3 weeks ago by  jemolian.

[jemolian]

Well, it depends on the pH requirements since it will impact the following:

carbomer

urea

Glycolic Acid

Salicylic Acid

Vit b3

vit b5

Lactic Acid

Zinc oxide

• This reply was modified 2 months ago by  jemolian.

[jemolian]

They are from Thailand, there should be others that are on the forum that have bought from them before besides from myself for smaller quantities. I’m not too sure about the source perhaps you will have to ask them since there are different manufacturers producing them.

[jemolian]

1.7% of 5% is 34%. 55% of 34 is 18.7%.

[jemolian]

You can consider substituting some of the olivem 1000 with another emulsifier. You can make a test with montanov 68 or those that graillotion mentioned to see which blend and at what percentage you prefer.

[jemolian]

Depending on the attachment you choose, there shouldn’t be any issues if you make less than 500g if the vessel you use is tall and narrow enough to reduce the amount of air introduced.

I do also make 50g and above batches of moisturizers & gelled formulas with the homogenizer attachment in beakers or different glassware.