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The 'coc' part (the fatty acid) is obtained from coconut oil (should be but may also come from palm kernel oil) whilst the amidopropylbetaine part is pure petrochemistry. Noteworthy, CPAB is not synthesised using betaine and even if, betaine aka tri…
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Mix without making that 'votrex'.Dimethicone is used to prevent soaping during application, not to prevent air incorporation due to unappropriate mixing techniques.Besides that, you might want to try with a lowre amount of base and a thickener in th…
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@Graillotion Poetic! Couldn't have explained it better :wink: .My go-to fulcrum for such cascades is also isoamyl laurate. Coco caprylate is nearly as nice but a tad richer (I sometimes use it as IL surrogate when expiration date happens) and I'm st…
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There is not one penetration enhancing ingredient which works for everything nor is there something which would reduce penetration of everything (except wrapping yourself in cling film before applying a product LoL). Regarding cling film and occlusi…
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@grapefruit22Thank you! That was exactly the document which I thought I've seen but couldn't find again. I failed to notice then that it's not a legally binding document but a 'best practice recommendation'...I'll check again what Swiss authorities …
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(Quote) Not a strict but a helpful and smart one ;) . This is the one answer (or question) which may lead to any constructive results.
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Recommended literature:- 'The Abbott Guide to Rheology' by Steven Abbott- 'Rheology Modifiers Handbook. Practical Use and Application' by David B. Braun and Meyer R. RosenKey message of both: There is not 'a viscosity' but diverse types and diverse …
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It's simply hyperosmolarity which results in a warming perception on skin by 'shrinking' nerve cells.
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(Quote) Just as an update (better late than never): Astonishingly, my inquiry had Bayer to have a meeting... The tech person called me back and said that their layers are sure that they are in accordance with European cosmetics regulations …
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Tocopheryl acetate isn't an antioxidant, so it might rather be tocopherol (however, tocopherol doesn't serve any purpose here other than skin benefits because ascorbic acid will protect/recycle it, not the other way round and you might want to add s…
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Eh? If you could explain how it's done in such a good way that you would pass as expert before your own eyes, why don't you yourself write the article?Retinol is a chemical compound and hence, you don't necessarily have to be a retinol specialist bu…
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I had a gread day, I know that retinol can be what you call 'stabilitzed' (turns out that your initial post is misleading because you've been asking for 'to write an opinion regarding the lack of retinol stabilizing ingredients'), and I'm not US bas…
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Just to understand you correctly:You're looking for a retinol expert (= a beauty expert, dermatologist, or plastic surgeon) who studied chemistry (not cosmetic chemistry but real chemistry) who writes an article on some commercial retinol products w…
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Yes.
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Several polyglyceryl esters are used for that purpose (examples are PG-4 oleate and caprate or PG-3 stearate). They aren't 'natural' depending on definition but they can be made from 100% renewable feedstock e.g. glycerol and fatty acids and are usu…
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A: Montanov 202 and glyceryl stearate SE have a higher melting/processing temperature than the other ones (~10°C higher). Generally, 70°C is on the lower end for all of them. Try 80°C. B: Montanov 202 is also different insofar as it can handle highe…
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Weird. Some resources list the INCI the other way round. Anyway, it can only be 40-70% and 30-60%, respectively, unless there's 10% nondeclared stuff inside too (such as moisture or magic). Based on the saponification value of Kostol Natural E Wax N…
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Isododecane is likely safer than the essential oils you're going to diffuse with it ;) .Isododecane is completely inert (it doesn't do anything, doesn't react with anything, and leaves your body unchanged), think volatile vaseline but biodegradable.
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(Quote) 1. As said, the optimal ratio of a given formulation (if said formulation even has one) depends on the formulation itself and can not be calculated.2. See N° 1.3. AFAIK laurate is the short end of hydrocarbon chains which still form…
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@BrendaM As one nearly always does in developing cosmetics: trial and error.Experimental setup depens on what you have, what you want, and how much time and effort you are willing to invest. Basically, you start with a formulation low in LGN promoto…
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@zetein Very well observed. Olivem 1000 is a gread example of an exception wherein seemingly everything contradicts the possibility of an LGN. I honestly don't know the true answer and was wondering too. Looks like there are two kinds of LGNs: the o…
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The C16/18 blend has unique properties (probably the reason why it's so abundant in nature) which makes it (until proven differently) the most stable and versatile of all. Besides, it's the oldest one, has the most experience/proven formulations and…
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There are other factors such as patentability, marketability, hypes, ease of sourcing and so on and so forth. Many things which have been published never made it for sometimes obscure reasons whilst others just popped up decades later as 'new' inven…
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Basically all conditioners and many other cosmetic products which contain considerable amounts of fatty alcohols, free fatty acids, glyceryl monoesters of fatty acids, fatty acid-2-lactylates, and other similar derivatives are highly likely to conta…
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Products with benzoyl peroxide need to be left on for at least 1-2 minutes, other rinse-off products for example with fungicides require up to 5 minutes (of freezing you butt off in the showers)...
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In a rinse-off product, it doesn't do any job other than marketing. Whatever you do, it will simply be flushed down the drain.
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@skininthegame Any update regarding your trial with potassium azeloyl diglycinate?
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The two are synonyms for the same ingredient. Te former is the term used in pharmaceuticals whilst the latter is INCI nomenclature.
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ROFLMAO! Good one! I hear it's a great pet shampoo, too. Especially for feral Hawaiian pigs :smiley: .
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You don't have triglycerides (at least, you should have <10% if you're 'super-fatting') but mostly fatty acid sodium salts. By instinct, I would expect glycerol to remain in the water phase upon salting out, given that glycerol isn't an electroly…
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