hey david,
yes plantapon is from BASF, CCT is Caprylic/ Capric Triglycerides also known as Medium Chain Triglycerides.
I've never used these other surfactants in an oil based system so I can't say how well they would really perform or if they would separate/ be opaque.
definitely agree with bill- tap water introduces huge potential burden, you can test it to confirm but ultimately for consistency you should get DI water at least
Which form of vitamin C are you using? What pH are you at? Can you share at least the full ingredients list? People can only help when given more information
if this is for your work and you have a company email I'd suggest making a ULprospector account. there are some supplier made formulas there you could use as a better starting point- sometimes its better to start fresh than to keep patching holes. …
I don't think it's a dumb question but I also don't have a great answer. Without major equipment I don't see how you would test which oils are staying on the surface vs being absorbed. I think if you are trying to target a specific time to absorb th…
The aerosil is extremely small and light, highly recommend wearing a well-fitting mask because it will float around if you aren't careful with addition. I've also noticed it can get draggy in higher amounts (>2%), especially if you don't have any…
You're going to have to provide more details- can you list the ingredients present? Is it stringy when you pour/pump it or is the texture noticeable even when sitting?
ambient humidity/ condensation can pool on top of the product- do you trust the instrument you got the humidity readings from? For me I'll ignore a 'small' amount of water on top, but it's really up to each individual to decide where to draw the li…
@Abdullah- that's been my experience as well, and many other formulas I've seen incorporate the gum into the water first. I always figured any charges (even weak van der waals forces) of the surfactants could interrupt the way the gum sets up.
Unf…
@tecnico3vinia - you are saying tocopheryl acetate "works" as an antioxidant in the formula, how are you evaluating that? Are you going based off appearance/smell, or do you test something quantitative like peroxide content?
Totally agree…
For question 1:
No I don't think you can substitute- the original emulsifier is meant for O/W systems, your substitution is meant for W/O.
I've never used this shop but they have it available here:
https://www.flowertalescosmetics.com/en/catalogue…
@Paprik, interesting, that would explain some things... what if some of your water is tied up in low pH actives as well though? There's no concern the surfactants will interfere with the way the gum sets up? I always see supplier formulas add gums a…
agree on check your drums/pails! we had a material that we later discovered was 'dirty' in the drum straight from the supplier- almost looked like water left over from a rinse was stuck in the bottom of an oil filled drum
@lucioc do you actually need to produce these formulas or just have something on paper to get a formula cost? UL prospector has tons of free formulas like this but you have to register
@AVisotsky Yes I'm a big fan if data entry is done right it's a great tool. There are sections for raw materials, overall formula building, packaging, BOM building and there are add on modules for production, inventory, and quality management
@Leo Thanks for your input- so is it a misnomer when products are saying onion 'oil'(is it really juice as you call it)? We have water-based onion extract, but the oil is proving difficult. The one formula we were shown as a benchmark does appear to…
I think @Paprik is on the right track- blooming is more like crystal formation, syneresis is 'sweating'. @ChemicalPyros suggestion of the silica could also help- I've used Aerosil 200 at <1%. For reference I also used 10% Glyceryl Stearate/ PEG-1…
@niecie2k Yes it is hard to compare, but when I look at other formulas for reference it helps to break things down like this:
-- try to identify where things are similar- you are making a color cosmetic for the eyes , so the ingredients you need …
@AVisotsky the software is literally called formulator
https://www.formulatorus.com/
It sounds like it can do much of what access does it's just already set up and designed for food/supplements/cosmetic formulations. Lots of ability to add in modu…
If your lab is small you can use https://www.quartzy.com/ for inventory for free. Also helps if you need to do any general purchasing of supplies.
As for formulas excel is okay. We have an outdated version of formulator software which when used pr…
https://www.kosterkeunen.com/pcformulationguide/?fwp_specific_industry_topics=color-cosmetics
you can look through some of these formulas to see what kind of ratios and ingredients are being used. (this one seems promising https://www.kosterkeunen…
Xanthan does not have great sensorial but if you are going to keep it you can always try adding it before surfactants go in. Sometimes I wonder if the gum doesn't hydrate properly when surfactants are already in the water
Can anyone explain why this isn't incompatible? Does it have to do with molecular size? My thought is guar gum is polymeric while the surfactants are relatively smaller molecules so they cannot form precipitates