EVchem

hey david, yes plantapon is from BASF, CCT  is Caprylic/ Capric Triglycerides  also known as Medium Chain Triglycerides.  I've never used these other surfactants in an oil based system  so I can't say how well they would really perform  or if they would separate/ be opaque.

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  • Haven't used them before but the site does look polished enough that I would give them a try
  • @Graillotion if you are that small I don't know that a conference would be most helpful at the moment. You could try joining  a guild or other interest group (Society of cosmetic chemists if you meet the requirements).  Other small quantity US vend…
  • The sodium benzoate /benzene fear would only be relevant for ascorbic acid, not a derivative  because this oil-soluble derivative would not break down under normal cosmetic conditions for any reaction to occur. Personally I think the whole ascorbic …
  • you have to post more information to get help. What is your full formula? What temperature did you fill at?
  • If you haven't seen barnet's presentation, they do  mention they tried a study at 30% that was more effective than 10 (but it looks like the sample size was 10 people...)  you could try reaching out to them for substantiation on their claims, my gu…
  • I've only been to suppliers day but I'd recommend it. Big names have big booths, but with the growing interest in ~natural~ products   makes me think most suppliers there will have some kind of offering geared toward that.  There were definitely som…
  • PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is nice too!  but for the plantasol: https://www.theherbarie.com/PlantaSol-CCG.html
  • I've seen companies include SLES and other sulfates but market the product as 'free of harsh sulfates'. We still make majority of our stock products sulfate free to circumvent complaints, but it either seems to be a given now or customers have moved…
  • Sure that makes sense. Stop me at any time- i'm a fan of debating in the gray area that the US cosmetics seems to frequently operate in.  If we accept separating extracts into  total water vs active then my next question is- what is that aloe 'activ…
  • I can see that point, but aloe (like all extracts) would be difficult to really accurately label then wouldn't it? If you had aloe 1x and added 10% to the formula, would you list it at 10%? By your logic, I think the answer would be no. But what wou…
  • they are also 'lying'/mislabeling.  But for aloe 200x I don't really understand what is wrong with reconstituting and listing it as if you had bought 1x in the first place. If you took 200x and added water to make an equivalent amount of 1x and comp…
  • can't help you without a rough idea of the formula and breakdown
  • Haven't worked with that emulium but the emulium kappa mb isn't bad feel, still has the soaping problem though. It would be easily fixed by silicones.. 
  • https://www.cdc.gov/handhygiene/science/index.html https://www.cdc.gov/infectioncontrol/guidelines/disinfection/disinfection-methods/chemical.html Isopropyl alcohol (20%) is effective in killing the cysts of Acanthamoeba culbertsoni (560) as are ch…
  • don't have firsthand experience but  what if they just reserved some small amount of the surfactant for the end to add with the fragrance?
  • https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetics-laws-regulations/it-cosmetic-drug-or-both-or-it-soap The Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act (FD&C Act) defines cosmetics by their intended use, as "articles intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled…
  • Never seen any evidence  of that- did you see that information somewhere? Usually you need very high concentrations of alcohol (>60%) for adequate preservation. I found this paper from 2010 using 5% ethanol in combination with other preservatives…
  • sadly  that method is not taken advantage of at the CM I'm at. Our top priority is usually quick turnaround, in which case making small changes to a preexisting formula is common as Bill said. Even for reverse engineer or fully custom requests where…
  • There are also different grades of xanthan gum that have different viscosities/ properties if you can get your hands on them. Something like Keltrol CG-SFT  can be used to produce lower viscosity but smoother  formula
  • Are you in the US? I know a couple but  they usually have ~50lb minimum order which is a lot of fragrance to go through. Yeah that would be so beyond difficult. There is so much variation between essential oils. For example there is french lavender…
  • - for stability you want oils high in saturated fats, its the unsaturated fats that are able to oxidize. Cheap easy replacement would be MCT. You can also get high oleic versions of sunflower.  You could easily cut beeswax in half if you do add som…
  • Your assumption isn't entirely wrong. In my most technical scientific explanation: science is hard and there is so much at play even in  simple formulas. I attached some references I like. Check out HIPE (High internal phase emulsions) too. Also k…
  • You're looking for small quantity? https://www.formulatorsampleshop.com/Glyceryl-Caprylate-p/fssm19000.htm
  • @PomadeCraft  not sure what you have, but if you have a scale, you can get a weight of the container you mix in. When you have added every ingredient, weigh the container +batch and subtract the weight of your container. Whatever remainder you have …
  • tocopherol (not tocopheryl acetate) is an antioxidant  that should help combat oils going rancid. The ideal thing to buy is  a mix of natural tocopherols, and that typically gets used at ~0.1 %  The blends of oils you've suggested shouldn't separat…
  • That hasn't been found conclusive (Sodium benzoate + ascorbic acid) as far as I know In November 2005, FDA received reports that benzene had been detected at low levels in some soft drinks containing benzoate salts and ascorbic acid. CFSAN immediat…
  • So the brush 'cleaners' are usually alcohol because it a cheap effective way to sanitize and it evaporates quickly.  100% is actually not as effective at sanitizing as 70%. But just alcohol won't clean any oil buildup off, you would need surfactant …
  • 3 months room temperature? lower viscosity might help, there might also be  filling techniques you could use to minimize the amount of air entrapped in the first place. How do you fill currently?
  • You're gonna have to post the ingredients,  roundabout percentages would also help. I will say that I've seen this in creams before but it depends on what you have in it
  • That formula is entirely oil which will give a nice dewy glow if formulated right, otherwise you just get greasy/shiny.  There are a couple specialty silicones that are meant to provide shine. You could take a look at hair care actives that claim to…
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