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  • Hello all! I am new here and am still quite new to formulating but I would love any input you may add. Also my apologies if this is quite lengthy. 

    I am starting a bit simple, but also trying to add my own small contribution. I am making a 2oz/ 56.69g brightening face cream to target dark spots. 

    I started with a base cream from a lab 
    (25-60%) Aloe Leaf Juice 
    (5-25%) Coconut Oil
    (4-10%) Emulsifying Wax (Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, Polysorbate 60)
    (4-10%) Glycerin
    (4-10%) Stearic Acid
    (3-8%) Ascorbyl Palmitate
    (0.5-3%) Tocopherol
    (1-8%) Sunflower Seed Oil
    (1-5%) Red Raspberry Fruit Extract
    (1-5%) Cranberry Fruit Extract 
    (1-5%) White Willow Bark Extract
    (1-5%) Rosehip Seed Oil
    (1-8%) Neem Seed Oil
    (1-5%) Rosemary Leaf Extract
    (1-5%) Sunflower Seed Oil
    (1-4%) Organic Alcohol
    (0.1-2%)  Xanthan Gum
    (0.1-2%) Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
     (0.1-1%) Phenoxyethanol
    From the base cream I am using 92% for the cream and adding my additional ingredients. 

    I am adding
    3% Licorice root extract 
    2.5% cucumber fruit extract
    1.5% alpha arbutin
    0.5% pomegranate seed oil
    0.5% Olivem 2090 
    All the ingredients I am adding apart from alpha arbutin are oil soluble, so I first dissolve alpha arbutin in water. My issue is I feel I am not adding enough alpha arbutin in general though I have tried to communicate with the lab. I know around 0.151g of Alpha arbutin is soluble in 1g of water and so to calculate 1.5% in my 2 oz cream I somehow only add around 0.113g from the alpha I dissolve in water. 

    I think my calculations might be in error, also upon trying to work with the lab I was told to try 0.85g of alpha arbutin in 1-2ml of water, this did not dissolve for me and started to crystalize. Then I was told to try 6ml of water to disperse the 0.85grams. 

    Please if anyone could just help me out on the proper amount of alpha arbutin, I would truly appreciate it!
    September 17

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