Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Xanthan Gum: Your favorite type…and why?

  • Xanthan Gum: Your favorite type…and why?

    Posted by suswang8 on November 17, 2020 at 4:30 pm

    Hi, all.

    I have been using Keltrol CG - SFT but am now intrigued about products like Cosphaderm.

    When it comes to emulsions, what kind of differences can you expect to see (if any) in switching to a more premium gum?  Someone mentioned on another post that certain Xanthan gums produce less “micro-foam” than others?

    Thank you.

    amitvedakar replied 3 years, 11 months ago 7 Members · 15 Replies
  • 15 Replies
  • suswang8

    Member
    December 4, 2020 at 7:42 pm

    Any takers?  Also curious as to which of the above are known for being more sticky.  Thank you.

  • Graillotion

    Member
    December 5, 2020 at 1:59 am

    Don’t like any X-Gum….formulate around it.   :) 

  • suswang8

    Member
    December 5, 2020 at 2:06 am

    Did you experiment with the more expensive types? Are you saying that you do not like gums at all, or that you just do not like xanthan?

  • helenhelen

    Member
    December 5, 2020 at 9:10 am

    Cosphaderm X34 is nicer than generic “Xanthan, transparent” but it is still prone to that gluey/stretchy consistency and adds to soaping. The main difference I find is that it doesn’t impart a smell like standard xanthan. It also disperses more easily but I would still predisperse it in glycerin.

    Cosphaderm X-Soft has the same claims as Keltrol CG Soft - less stringiness. I find Cosphaderm has a waxier afterfeel than Cosphaderm X34 though… I find it quite uncomfortable.

    I would guess Keltrol, Cosphaderm and Jungbunzlauer all have very similar products/grades and that there isn’t much difference between the brands when you are comparing the equivalent products. For example, Jungbunzlauer XG FNCSP PC sounds like it will behave like Cosphaderm X-Soft. I haven’t tried them all though… so I can’t say for sure if they are identical.

    BTW a 50:50 mix of xanthan and sclerotium (e.g. Amigum) will reduce soaping and stretchiness considerably.

    I have also tried Rheozan SH (succinoglycan) which claims to be nicer than xanthan. I found it maybe softer feeling on the skin but it needs more of it for the same viscosity as xanthan, and it’s still stretchy and gluey. In the end I stopped using it as I found it had a strange effect of feeling slimey on the skin when washing.

  • Graillotion

    Member
    December 5, 2020 at 10:06 pm

    suswang8 said:

    Did you experiment with the more expensive types? Are you saying that you do not like gums at all, or that you just do not like xanthan?

    1) Don’t care for the texture they bring….
    2) I am a anti-soaping fanatic.

    ….And hey….why not just just a polymeric….when it actually enhances the texture when used correctly?

    I would say…I don’t use Xgum any more, just like I don’t formulate with e-wax…. So many better options.

  • Bo77

    Member
    December 6, 2020 at 10:21 pm

    Don’t like any X-Gum….formulate around it.   :) 

    I agree with it, I never formulate with x gum. Don’t like it.

  • Graillotion

    Member
    December 6, 2020 at 10:49 pm

    suswang8 said:

    Did you experiment with the more expensive types? Are you saying that you do not like gums at all, or that you just do not like xanthan?

    They are called…. “GUM” for a reason.  I have never had a customer say….I wish your products had a more gummy feel to them.

    I don’t know the full history, but I think gums came about to help stabilize emulsions, when we did not have some of the tools we have now.  You just put up with the negative aspects, in order to achieve stability.

    Maybe you can start a new thread…. What and why is your favorite X-Gum alternative.

    Also…. Why are you asking about gums?  If you state the formulating goal….the group will gladly kick in their thoughts and alternatives. (I mean this in the kindest way… If you state your objective, you will often get input that helps you make a break-through in your product development.)  If you just ask about gums…you’ll only get gum answers.  If you say…. How do I stabilize an emulsion, while enhancing the texture….you get a completely group of answers.

  • suswang8

    Member
    December 7, 2020 at 12:35 am

    Well, for that matter, how many customers tell you that they want something that feels more oily? On that basis, you would never put oil into a product.  :-)))

    I’m asking because I am doing all-natural skin care, and it seems that it is the recommendation of a lot of people online that xanthan gum is a good way to increase the stability of emulsions, while also being being a natural component.  Secondary to all of this is that for some preparations, I need to increase  the viscosity a bit, but that aspect is not so important.

  • Bo77

    Member
    December 8, 2020 at 1:56 am

    suswang8, I think I would try  Hydroxyethylcellulose HEC instead of xgum. I heard that it’s superior to xgum.? I can’t attest to it, personally. But I know some people using it and like it much better. And it will go with the natural term. 

  • suswang8

    Member
    December 8, 2020 at 2:30 am

    Thank you.  I will research that.  I guess my point above was:  It seems odd that so many online natural formulators seemingly use/recommend xanthan gum if it’s not a good ingredient.

  • jemolian

    Member
    December 8, 2020 at 3:15 am

    Xanthan Gum is one of the basic starter ingredient and it’s easiest to process, though i prefer HEC as well. For HEC, it either requires heat or alkaline pH to hydrate quicker, so it really depends on your applications if it can fit your skin feel or processes, you can switch the gums accordingly. 

  • emma1985

    Member
    December 8, 2020 at 4:05 am

    Seconding polymerics as much better alternatives to Xanthan. I love Aristoflex but Sepinov and Sepimax are nice too. Polymerics are far superior because they not only enhance moisturization and elegance, they play a bigger role in stability because they actually emulsify …which Xanthan does not. Xanthan is an ingredient that you tolerate, if you have to. Luckily we do not as there are alternatives that are better in every way..

  • Bo77

    Member
    December 8, 2020 at 5:20 am

    suswang8, if you will decide to try some polymers, which can’t really reach the natural skincare status, try to search for - Sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, C15-19 alkane, polyglyceryl-6 laurate, polyglycerin-6. GelMaker NAT, I believe Makingcosmetics have it. They listed under ” Natural Emulsifying & Gelling Polymer Thickener”. It’s superior to xgum. Not the best gel maker on the market, but claiming natural. This can maybe help you a little.
     I don’t know how “deeply  natural” you want to be with your products.  “Natural” will not give you many choices, it’s  limited. There are so many levels of “natural”. I think that most natural formulators don’t have that many choices, that’s why they recommend xgum and gums in general. To formulate natural is limited. I know, I did it, too. I still do on some level, choosing safer ingredients over others ( only my opinion) etc. Mixing oils and steeping herbs , I grow up with herbs :-)
    Anyway, I turned to safe cosmetic material and started to mix “natural” with “safe chemicals” because they are better in feel, touch, stability etc. Of course that ,let’s say, cream 75/25 with Olivem 1000 and some CA and botanical extract is lovely, but some let’s say C14-22 Alcohols & C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside ( Montanov L), with some Aristoflex and carbomer is better. ( just examples) and I would say, maybe saleable better.

    Anyway, I apologize for writing long novel here lol :-) Just wanted to say that natural formulators raving about xgum simply because they are somehow limited with a lot of ingredients. 
    Good luck with your product.
    Bo

  • Bo77

    Member
    December 8, 2020 at 5:28 am

    I totally forgot about Siligel- Xanthan Gum, Lecithin, Sclerotium Gum, Pullulan. You can try it, natural gelling :-) I remember trying it long time ago. Natural formulators love it. 

  • amitvedakar

    Member
    December 10, 2020 at 11:35 am
    siligel nice but Price OMG!!

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