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Why is my formula sticky? Could you please review it?
Hi,
Please excuse me for such a basic question but I really would love to understand what I’m doing wrong. I’m trying to make a very light face cream but every single time it comes out sticky. I’ve reduced glycerites to minimum to check if they were the ones to blame…and apparently they are not. I’ve used 3,5% od Dermosoft 1388 eco (INCI Aqua Glycerin Sodium Levulinate Sodium Anisate) as this is my best bet since it has glycerin, but from the other hand I’ve seen many creams with this preservative which are not sticky. I’d really appreciate if you could educate me here.THE FORMULA
Montanov
68 4.4%sweet
almond oil 0.5%Caprylic/Capric
Triglyceride 3.5%Guar
Gum 0.2%water 76.65%
Allantoin 0.1%
Niacynamide 2%
Dermosoft
1388eco 3.5%lactic
acid 0.35%dermofeel
PA12 0.1%AMTcide
coconut 2%Vit
E 0.4%Essential
Oils mix 0.8%Gingko
biloba glycerite 0.1%chamomile
glycerite 0.1%Squalane 1.4%
Sea
buckthorn CO2 1.9%Cetyl
Alcohol 1.9%Dermosoft
1388 eco INCI Aqua Glycerin Sodium Levulinate Sodium Anisate)
Montanov
68 INCI Cetearyl
Alcohol (and) Cetearyl GlucosideDermofeel
PA12 INCI Sodium PhytateAMTcide
coconut INCI INCI:Lactobacillus
(and) Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Fruit ExtractBoth
glrycerites are preserved with Leucidal Liquid (INCI
Leuconostoc/Radish
Root Ferment Filtrate)Also, please let me know if there are any obvious mistakes in the formula apart from the sticky issue.Thanks!
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3 Replies
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@Paulaahave you used guar gum before? Maybe you could swap to xanthan gum. Hope this helps
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@Paulaa sorry can’t add more than the previous commentator on stickiness, however a couple of notes in general. Your concentration of essential oils is too high. Essential oils are generally bad for skin. You can get away with a concentration of 0.01% but higher than this will sensitize the skin in a long run. Especially if you have phototoxic oils such as orange, lime etc. Also seems like you need more humectant (propanediol, butylene glycol etc) . Correct me if I am wrong please, but where’s your preservative system? And which form of Vitamin E is it? Tocopherol or Tocopheryl Acetate?
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Regarding thickeners, can you find sodium carbomer (lotioncrafter) or acrylates (makingcosmetics gelmaker powder)? They perform better than gums. Another good option is a polymer like Sepinov EMT (goes well with Montanov, same manufacturer)
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