Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Water based (unorthodox) clay

  • Water based (unorthodox) clay

    Posted by franklinfuertes88 on September 16, 2020 at 4:54 am

    Hi all, I have ran many trials to try to get this right 

    recipe below 
    Water - 35%

    Peg40HCO - 9.5%
    Polysorbate 80 - 4%
    Glyceryl Sterate se - 1.5%
    Carnuba wax - 6%
    Castor Wax - 18%
    Shea butter - 6%
    Castor oil - 10% 

    kaolin clay - 6%

    Bentonite clay 4%
    Phenoxethanol SA - 1% (added at or below 60c)
    I hear on separen bowls, when everything I melted, I add the water into the oils and mix for a minute or two. 
    Then I add the clay and bentonite into 
    everything seems fine then right around 65c it starts to get a bit too viscous (I do add PE sa at 60c but at that point it’s already too viscous you pour. 
    I already ran a few runs with lower wax %s 
    is there anything I can change or add to keep things more flowing ? 
    I’d like to pour at around 45-50c. 
    Thanks for your help. 
    natzam44 replied 3 years, 6 months ago 2 Members · 1 Reply
  • 1 Reply
  • natzam44

    Member
    September 16, 2020 at 2:33 pm

    The problem here is that your waxes have very high melting points. This means that by the time you get to your desired temperature range of 45-50c, your product is basically already solid. 

    To solve this, you could dramatically decrease the % of wax in your formula or try using different waces with lower melting points.

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