Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Vitamin C Serum: Would appreciate some advice. Thanks.

  • Vitamin C Serum: Would appreciate some advice. Thanks.

    Posted by SugarHouse on September 27, 2021 at 9:16 pm

    Hello,

    I am looking to add Vitamin C to my serum base and would like some advice please.  Here is the base formula:

    Demineralised Water 90.4
    Aloe Vera 0.1
    Xanthan Gum 0.5
    Coconut Oil 3
    Floraesters 2
    Kakadu Plum 1
    Finger Lime Caviar 1
    Geoguard 221 1
    Citric Acid to pH 4-6 1

    I am thinking of adding Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate as I understand it is the more stable form of Vitamin C.  If so, can anybody give me some tips on how much to use and how to successfully incorporate it into my formula.

    Many thanks,

    SH

    SugarHouse replied 3 years, 3 months ago 3 Members · 4 Replies
  • 4 Replies
  • Pattsi

    Member
    September 29, 2021 at 12:41 pm

    Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate is water soluble, so you can add it to your water phase, final pH should be around 7-8 for Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate’s stability.

    you have water phase and oil phase but you don’t have emulsifier.

  • SugarHouse

    Member
    September 29, 2021 at 9:48 pm

    Sorry, I made a mistake above.  

    Xantham Gum = Siligel 2%.

    Does it need an Emulsifier?
    Also, would a pH of 7-9 be OK for the Preservative, Geodard 221?

    Thanks.

  • Paprik

    Member
    September 30, 2021 at 12:18 am

    I checked some Datasheets for you.
    Btw. @Pattsi is totally right. 

    pH is to be above 6.5. It’s water soluble. Do not expose to heat.
    Usage:
    0.2 - 2% - in daily skin care
    0.2 - 1% - in sun care 
    3% in lightening products. 

    Add chelating agent, good to add vitamin E and you can add other forms (e.g. ascorbic acid) of Vit C.

    For this amount of lipid you would need probably an emulsifier. If you stick to around 3%, the 2% Siligel could tolerate that. Or add some solubiliser.

    Geogard 221 is active between 2 - 7. As you need the product to be around 7, is it not suitable preservative. 

  • SugarHouse

    Member
    September 30, 2021 at 12:40 am

    Thanks @Paprik. I can’t use Vitamin E because most have palm oil and the range is palm oil-free. I have some questions, if I may:

    Is the chelating agent another ingredient, or was that the Vitamin E?
    Could you please recommend a more suitable Preservative?
    Also, is there another form of Vitamin E that is easier to use?

    Thanks so much!

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