Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Vitamin c serum help

  • Majman

    Member
    August 10, 2019 at 1:19 pm

    @markbroussard so this will help lighten the face yeah? Adding L-gluthathione

  • markbroussard

    Member
    August 10, 2019 at 1:27 pm

    Yes, L-glutathione is used as a lightening ingredient.

  • pharma

    Member
    August 10, 2019 at 5:20 pm
    @MarkBroussard Are you intentionally avoiding a clear answer to @Majman‘s question? The way I understand his/her question is whether or not it actually reduces pigmentation. Your answer is simply agreeing that it is marketed for said effect.
    I don’t know if glutathione (GSH) really works topically. In theory it is a good antioxidant and it reduces oxidised ascorbic acid forms in vivo. On the other hand, GSH is a large molecule with several charges and hence unlikely to penetrate deep enough (even oral bioavailability is piss poor). It seems a legit assumption that, if GSH is intended to be used for chemical reactions rather than pharmacological ones (i.e. involving living cells and a functional redox metabolism), a replacement with the smaller, cheaper and less charged N-acetylcysteine will give improved effects for less $$. Label-wise, “NAC” instead of “glutathione” just doesn’t sound as fancy and might even cause people to wonder since NAC is a common (though not very effective) cough medicine. An additional consideration should be the source of GSH because often enough, the product is actually the oxidised form GSSG.
  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    August 10, 2019 at 8:54 pm

    I tried to research it previously because one the forum members (who I advised against applying an insane 20% monobenzone moisturizer on her face) asked me of my opinion on glutathione injections. I couldn’t find any proof that even injections or oral treatment work. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3162377/
    It either has effect on limited number of subjects or no effects comparing to placebo. In some studies glutathione pills (500 mg for 6 weeks) resulted reduced level of melanin on half of face, which isn’t a desirable effect I believe. There’s more proof that NAG+Niacinamide works (although I would not claim it as a fact).

  • markbroussard

    Member
    August 10, 2019 at 10:45 pm

    Exactly my point.

  • Majman

    Member
    August 10, 2019 at 11:13 pm

    Perhaps cos you guys are white, you don’t see much difference because amongst blacks , people make bleaching creams and they appear to work and not all use hydroquinone so I’m wondering when you all day alpha Arbutin doesn’t do much and all that, so what ingredients could those who make bleaching creams be using 

  • Majman

    Member
    August 10, 2019 at 11:17 pm

    Some have credited using insanely high dosage of glutathione injections and high dosage of vitamin c to attain brighter complexion along with bleaching creams 

  • markbroussard

    Member
    August 11, 2019 at 12:13 am

    @majman:

    The evidence is not definitively conclusive:  http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5808366/

    Yes, it appears to be safe to use in topicals and may have some effect.  There are a number of ingredients for evening skin tone that can be used in combination as they have different modes of action.  IMHO it’s kind of crazy to administer L-Glutathione IV drips to try to lighten skin tone … as though there is something wrong with the skin you’re born with.

  • amitvedakar

    Member
    August 11, 2019 at 5:24 am

    I Think
    any Skin lighting ingredient only work, if people have deficiency of that ingredient.
    Is that true?

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    August 11, 2019 at 8:48 am

    @Majman, please don’t think that white people don’t understand you struggle. I am caucasian mixed with Russian. I am type III photo type on Fitzpatrick scale. However for my Russian relatives I was never white enough and I heard a lot of rather diminishing comments. I grew up with an obsession to lighten my skin (that no one understands because I am ‘white). So, you can be ‘wrong shade of white’.  I read many studies because I was interested in this topic and my conclusion is you can’t get significant results without using potentially dangerous methods such as hydroquinone. You can even skin tone out by using AHAs, applying broad spectrum sunscreen and avoiding sun exposure. But you won’t get visible results without risk. Neither with vitamin c, nor with alpha arbutin. You can use vitamin c and market it to your clients as a ‘brightening product’ but as a formulator you must understand what is working and what is not.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    August 11, 2019 at 9:06 am

    Just to clarify, hydroquinone isn’t dangerous if used below 2% with a sunscreen but the bleaching creams that give you ‘several shades lighter’ effect are very far from 2%.

  • pharma

    Member
    August 11, 2019 at 11:50 am

    Benzoyl peroxide works. Here in CH, only up to 5% are allowed and considered as drug requiring registration. On the other hand, I’ve seen 20% creams being sold in supermarkets on Sri Lanka.

  • markbroussard

    Member
    August 11, 2019 at 12:59 pm

    I Think
    any Skin lighting ingredient only work, if people have deficiency of that ingredient.
    Is that true?

    No, incorrect.  OTC cosmetic skin lightening/evening skin tone/reducing hyperpigmentation is all about using topicals to reduce melanin synthesis.  It has nothing to do with deficiencies.

    Skin bleaching is something completely different … @Majman … some of the techniques used include products containing mercury, high loads of hydroquinone, the IV drips and others that are just plain dangerous.  Most all of these products are banned in the US and Europe.

  • amitvedakar

    Member
    August 12, 2019 at 4:16 am
    Thank you @MarkBroussard  for clearing my doubts.
    Hydroquinone is prescribed pharma ingredient here in my country.
  • amitvedakar

    Member
    August 12, 2019 at 8:16 am
    Can I  choose Ascorbic acid 15% +ferulic 1% + HA 0.3%+ Niacianmide 2%
    OR MAP +ferulic+HA+Niacinamide.

    As i read HA + Niacinamide good combination while Niacinamide can affect integrity of the Vitamin C.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    August 12, 2019 at 8:29 am

    That study on niacinamide and LAA incompatibility was done under extreme conditions and isn’t reflect the reality. The only concern for this combination is the pH. LAA performs the best at acidic pH (I believe it’s 3.5) while niacinamide at neutral.  You can solve this by using MAP. By the way it isn’t as stable as suppliers say. It oxidizes, maybe slower than LAA but it still does, so you should add antioxidants.

  • amitvedakar

    Member
    August 12, 2019 at 11:28 am
    my addition of  Sodium betabisulfite ?
    Preservative: Phenoxyethyanol & Potassium sorbate.
    What do you think?
  • dtdang

    Member
    August 12, 2019 at 5:11 pm

    Vit A is not surviving under pH <5.9. But it will be stable at pH >=6
    HA is working the best at pK {3.6, 4.1}

  • Majman

    Member
    August 12, 2019 at 6:48 pm

    Thanks @ngarayeva001 and @MarkBroussard It’s pretty prevalent amongst blacks, I guess because of law of opposite attraction or something but it’s causing me stress because when you say vitamin c is brightening and you make a serum that doesn’t do that, it makes you look like a fraud or incompetent and stuff. 

    How can you determine a product has steroids, mercury etc because people buy these creams and they appear to glow luminous, have poreless skin and on the ingredient label, u see AHAs, fruit extracts and petrolatum and maybe stearic acid and wonder how? 

    Due to popular demand, I’m equally looking for a way to make my vitamin c serum lightening  

    And is these mercury and other harmful ingredients responsible for giving those who use it the poreless skin they have even though usually within 6 months, they tend to start having bad reactions to it and ruins their skin. 

    I’m just caving under pressure 

  • Majman

    Member
    August 12, 2019 at 6:58 pm

    Also, with black people, even the use of hydroquinone even at 2% on a long term could cause ochronosis so I’m confused, I guess I’d check some of the bleaching creams ingredients and bring it here for your analyses 

  • markbroussard

    Member
    August 12, 2019 at 8:29 pm

    @majman:

    Without having lists of ingredients from specific products, it is not really possible to know anything other than broad generalities.  If you post an LOI then we can have a discussion that is not just speculative and hypothetical.

    Brightening and Bleaching are two very different things … which of the two are you referring to?  Vitamin C will brighten skin, but it certainly will not bleach it.

  • gunther

    Member
    August 12, 2019 at 11:09 pm

    Oral Vitamin C megadoses were already tried in the 70s, and no positive effects on skin were noticed, despite absorption being guaranteed in oral products, unlike topical products.

    Vitamin C does nothing beneficial to the skin.

  • Anonymous

    Guest
    August 26, 2019 at 6:32 pm

    Add vitamin E & wheat germ oil to the oil phase and emulsifier.  Then add phase A ( water ingredients ) into phase B ( oil ingredients ).  Prior mixing, make sure both beakers ( phase A and Phase B ) are at the same temperature. Use a good inmmersion blender or stirrer for emulsion.
    Read instructions from your supplier for the finished product ph level recommended for your vitamin C.
     if adding preservative, also check the ph range required prior adding to your formumation.
    Always use ph strips to verify the ph of your batch to ensure proper ph value of whatever product you want to make…. it will help you to avoid ruining your whole formula if ph fallen too acidic or to alky !!!

  • amitvedakar

    Member
    August 27, 2019 at 3:53 pm
    @Vanessa  thank you.

    Gunther said:

    Oral Vitamin C megadoses were already tried in the 70s, and no positive effects on skin were noticed, despite absorption being guaranteed in oral products, unlike topical products.

    Vitamin C does nothing beneficial to the skin.

    you may be right as all cosmetics do temporary job.

    Still market is on.
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