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Stick Sunscreen – Dry Touch
I am developing a stick sunscreen that should have a dry touch. I am using a significant amount of sensory modifiers, but when applied to the face, the product still feels sticky and provides a greasy touch. Currently, the formula is as follows:
Stick Sunscreen – Dry Touch<div>
Phase A
- Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride – qsp 100 (16.8%)
- Cetiol CC (Dicaprylyl Carbonate) – 10%
- Cetiol OE (Dicaprylyl Ether) – 10%
- Candelilla Wax (Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax) – 10%
- Cetearyl Alcohol – 8%
- Cupuaçu Butter (Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter) – 3%
- Non-nano Zinc Oxide (Zinc Oxide) – 15%
- Titanium Dioxide – 7%
- Olivem 900 (Sorbitan Olivate) – 5%
Phase B
- Granpowder BBP-700 (Polymethylsilsesquioxane) – 3%
- Silica – 5%
- Sherilex PC (Polymethyl Methacrylate) – 4%
- Tersil CW 50G (Silica Dimethyl Silylate) – 1%
Phase C
- Symdiol 68 Green (1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol) – 1%
- Symvital Mada (Malus Domestica Fruit Extract) – 0.2%
- Tocopherol – 1%
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5 Replies
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your stick structure is not good. Candelilla wax at 8% by itself will not form a hard enough stick. Cetearyl alcohol is not a good anhydrous stick structurant. with all the powders you have, you would need even more waxes. the harder you product, less product you will get on your face and less sticky it will be. remove cetearyl alcohol and olivem 900. add carnauba wax - forms pretty rigid structure, and beeswax or kester wax k-60P for plasticizing so the stick is not brittle.
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I really appreciate your feedback. The product must comply with NATRUE guidelines, so I cannot use beeswax or synthetic polymers. What do you think about carnauba wax at 25% and candelilla wax at 5%? Considering the removal of Olivem 900 and cetearyl alcohol, as you suggested. I could also use hydrogenated olive oil or sunflower wax… What are your thoughts?
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25% carnauba wax is way too much - your stick will be too brittle and brick. you should start trying to build the structure from 5-6% carnauba, 5-6% candelila. can you not try kester wax k-60P/polyhydroxystearic acid? it’s naturally derived. you need something to help with flexibility. sunflower wax is more flexible than carnauba wax but it’s not as good in my experience in reducing brittleness. if you can’t do kester wax k-60p, try just candelilla and carnauba wax first. berry wax from kahlwax is also flexible.
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Thank you so much for your suggestions! I really appreciate your insights and the detailed explanation. I’ll start by testing 5-6% carnauba wax and 5-6% candelilla wax, as you recommended, and will also look into Berry Wax as a flexible option. Your advice has been really helpful!
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Olive M, Cupuacu and the alcohol you’ve chosen would not create a dry touch. Kokum butter is very hard and has a matte finish, cetyl alcohol gives a powdery touch, carnuba wax is very hard and will harden the stick well enough for a drier feel. The recipe could use an overhaul in terms of ingredients. Adding rice starch or other powders can prevent any greasy feel. The titanium dioxide is a bit high, it requires so much lipids to disperse that you’d have to add more powders to balance the feel. I think the others gave good advice too.
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