Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Stearic acid in lip balm???

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  • Stearic acid in lip balm???

    Posted by Molly_Cule on August 22, 2019 at 9:57 am

    Hello everyone! :)
    I know that stearic acid functions as an anionic o/w emulsifier and used in lotions and soaps as a thickening agent but after I found a website using it in its lipbalm recipe, I decided to adjust the recipe a little bit as below and see for myself:

    30%       Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter
    25%       Beeswax (Cera Alba)
    15,5%    Stearic acid
    17%       Ricinus communis (Castor) oil
    10%       Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil
    0,5%      Tocopheryl Acetate (vitamin E)
    2%         Mica

    I have to say the result has a nice texture and slip but I am not quite sure about the stearic in the lip balm. Unfortunately the information I can find about this topic is limited. So, my questions are, is it actually safe to use in a lip product? And at what percentages? 

    Molly_Cule replied 4 years, 9 months ago 2 Members · 3 Replies
  • 3 Replies
  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    August 22, 2019 at 12:54 pm

    It is safe to use in lip balms and there are no restrictions. Stearic acid is a fatty acid that can be found in many butters. Look at the fatty acid profile of the Cacao butter, and you will see it’s 30% stearic acid.

    It becomes a surfactant only when neutralised. It is also used in moisturised as a thickener, same way as cetearyl alcohol, and it has no emulsification properties like that.
      
    If you see stearic acid as one of the first ingredients, triethanolamine higher than 1% line and no other emulsifiers, then it is used as an emulsifier because stearic acid was neutralised by TEA and formed an old fashioned emulsifier called TEA-stearate, which is a soap.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    August 22, 2019 at 12:59 pm

    I use it at 15% in my lip balm:

    INCI %
    Octyldodecanol 31%
    Euphorbia
    Cerifera
    4%
    Beeswax 20%
    Petrolatum 25%
    Stearic acid 15%
    Behenyl
    Alcohol
    5%
  • Molly_Cule

    Member
    August 22, 2019 at 1:08 pm

    I can’t thank you enough for your help! :) :) :) 

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