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Silk powder, niacinamide, and panthenol
So im trying to come up with a nice NOT to thick (more like serum texture) face cream and was just curiouse if these 3 would formulate and function good on the skin together and provide some nice results. Anyone have any advise or experience working with all three together in a formulation?
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17 Replies
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Out of these 3, silk powder (proteins, amino acids) doesn’t do much and smells terribly. You will need tons of perfume to suppress this smell. Pathenol - doesn’t really do anything though you can use a little (0.5%). Niacinamide- great ingredient that is proven to have skin benefits by many studies. Good amount is 5%. My advice is add 5% of Niacinamide and 0.5% of panthenol in your waterphase (don’t forget your chelator, use tetrasodium EDTA to keep it transparent and watersolubld preservative), add something around 0.3% of high molecular weight hyaluronic acid and leave it in peace for 3 hours. Then mix it well (with a spatula, you don’t need special instruments) and call it vitamin b serum. If it’s too thin for you, just add more HA and mix again.
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If you want it to be an emulsion use the same logic but you need oil phase. Say 1% of shea butter, 3% of jojoba oil (or squalane) and non thickening emulsifier. For example glyceryl stearate/peg100 stearate and something to decrease hlb, for example sorbitan oleate (because shea is 6, jojoba is 7 if I remember correctly, and emulsifiyers mix above is 11). Don’t use polysorbate 60, or glyceryl oleate.
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Ok i only have emulsifying wax nf, stearic acid and cetyl alcohol right now im waiting on my btms 50 and the NF has Polysorbate 60, cetearyl alcohol, peg-150, and steareth-20 in it according to the INCI. What about Mango Butter and i only have veg glycerin right now also have a order im placing but waiting to add a few more to save on my shipping
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I also only have disodium EDTA right now which is a chelating agent would that be good for the serum?
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@Jdawgswife76, disodium EDTA is actually preferable for products with lower pH (lower than
. Tetrasodium is used for surfactants and when you want to get a clear product. So it only relevant for water based serum. You are trying to make an emuslsion, so disodium is even better. I am not a big fan of emulsifiers with many components (unless it’s a polymer), so I have cetearyl alcohol and polysorbate 60 separately. The thing is they both are thickeners (poly60 is a high hlb emulsifier but it has thickening properties).Try to play with percentages to see if you can get serum like texture. Don’t use much oil if you use low % of the emulsifier. Mango butter is ok. It is lighter than shea. So it’s about your preferences. -
Studies show topical niacinamide, creatine and folic acid have great potential.
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Im assuming for the skin as in creams, lotions, serums, etc? I actually have all of these and sounds really great I will have to play around with these ingredients. The creatine i haven’t really heard much about in formulating.
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I really wish I could find folic acid in homecrafter quantities. @Gunther, do you know by any chance who sells it?
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I would suggest using Panthenol at a lower level, or even not at all. There are global panthenol shortages due to plants in China closing and prices are jumping up. I don’t think your clients will notice a difference without it. Maybe put it in at 0.01% if you really want it on the IL?
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DSM has Folic acid available but is expensive, in large quantities and in the few cases I have used it, the results were really minimal at best.
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Folic acid or ferulic acid? I have Ferulic Acid
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Bulk suplments has folic acid
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1. It is Folic acid I believe that was mentioned, but I don’t put much past over auto-correct. Ferulic acid is a totally different animal.2. Bulk supplements have an oral grade (Supplements, not Cosmetic) at 10 grams for almost 13 dollars. That brings your cost to $587.85 per pound or $1293.27 per pound. That is a lot of raw material cost for an item with minimal benefit.
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I was just letting you know who had it that i could think of off top of my head. ..
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I understand. (above should be $1293.27 per kilo.)
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I am not particularly experienced, but my observation is that outrageously expensive ingredients are not worth the money. Say, hyaluronic acid, around $40-50 for 25gr on lotioncrafter (depending on the molecular weight). You can get exactly the same result (if not better) by mixing glycerin, butylene glycol and 1,3 Propanediol for a fraction of the price. I was actually interested in folic acid, but sounds like it’s another “resveratrol” (crazy price no result).
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@ngarayeva001 - that’s a good starting assumption.
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