Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Rinse off conditioner for dry hair

  • Rinse off conditioner for dry hair

    Posted by kavya on July 28, 2015 at 4:24 pm

    I am formulating a regular use rinse-off conditioner for dry hair. I am thinking of BTMS-25 and stearamidopropyl dimethylamine as the main conditioning agent. I am thinking of 3-4% of BTMS-25 and 2% of SD. Would you please recommend the suitable concentration of these two so that it won’t weigh down the hair and provide good wet detangling? 

    kavya replied 8 years, 9 months ago 4 Members · 9 Replies
  • 9 Replies
  • OldPerry

    Member
    July 28, 2015 at 4:59 pm

    Those are good starting points.  You could probably get away with using half that amount though.

    So, 2% BTMS and 1% Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.  You have to make the prototypes and determine if they give you the results you are looking for.  Whether something weighs down the hair and provides good wet detangling is a matter of opinion & you’ll have to decide for yourself (or you consumers)
  • belassi

    Member
    July 28, 2015 at 6:09 pm

    For dry hair consider adding 1.5% of Lamesoft PO-65. It is a refattening agent.

  • kavya

    Member
    July 29, 2015 at 2:55 am

    Thanks Belassi. I will think about using that. 

    Thanks Perry. One more doubt please. 
    I want to know the reason for lowering down the level. Do you think the concentration of 3-4% BTMS and 1-2% SD is too high? Will they cause the buildup by bonding at this concentration or will weigh the hair down or any other reason?
  • Chemist77

    Member
    July 29, 2015 at 5:16 am

    My 2 cents worth is that you always start lower and go gradually upwards depending on the outcome of the first trial’s efficacy/performance. So I suppose @Perry wants to highlight that here. And then there are product literature to refer to for minimum and maximum dosage level. 

    @Belassi That was absolutely a WOW suggestion that you chipped in. 
  • OldPerry

    Member
    July 30, 2015 at 1:30 am

    The reason I suggested lowering the level is because you may be delivering more of an ingredient than you need.  I slightly disagree with @Chemist77 and basically believe the opposite. (Although @Chemist77 approach works too). 

    When formulating you should start with the highest level suggested by the supplier.  But that is not where you should end up.  The supplier will tell you the maximum amount because that is what they want you to use.  They make more money that way.  However, that doesn’t mean you need that much of the ingredient.

    I believe in following for Minimalist Formulation Philosophy.
    Basically, your goal should be to use the least amount of an ingredient that you can while demonstrating a consumer perceptible difference.
    In my work, I’ve found that most people (formulators included) couldn’t tell a difference between a formula with 4% BTMS vs 2% BTMS.  So, there is no reason to go as high as 4% at least if conditioning is you primary consideration.  But your consumer might be able to tell a difference. You just have to experiment. 
    Remember to blind your experiments though.  It is very easy to fool yourself without blinding.
  • belassi

    Member
    July 30, 2015 at 5:01 am

    Also this: Polyquart H81. This works great in shampoos too. About 1% or so. I use 1.5% of this, plus 1% of Lamesoft, in my all-purpose shampoo with tea tree oil, based on ammonium sulphates. I actually prefer the result to that of my sulphate-free shampoo.

  • Chemist77

    Member
    July 30, 2015 at 2:18 pm

    @Perry oops my bad, in my case I go for midway suggested by supplier. Then on I decide to go up or down.

  • OldPerry

    Member
    July 30, 2015 at 2:39 pm

    @Chemist77 - yeah your method works too.  

  • kavya

    Member
    July 31, 2015 at 4:01 am

    Thank a lot all of you. This forum and site is such a great source of knowledge. Think I will experiment with the concentration and will start with around 2-3% BTMS. Thanks again all of you :)

Log in to reply.