Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Color and makeup Question or two about Fractionated Coconut Oil / Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

  • Question or two about Fractionated Coconut Oil / Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

    Posted by Anonymous on June 17, 2014 at 3:01 pm
    I’ve looked high and low, even my vendors won’t answer me on this, as I’ve tried dropping them a line a few times with no response. I’m starting my own (very small) cosmetics business. Anyway, I want to use Fractionated Coconut Oil in my loose powder blends, like eye shadow, foundation, blush and all that jazz. I want to use it to press eye shadows, too.

    Firstly, if I put the FCO(Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) in my loose powder blends, will they mold or go rancid over time? Do I need a preservative? I know all about the nasties and I have a very sanitized work space, so I’m very aware of those possibilities. My products will definitely come into contact with human skin and human hands, as per my customers. I’m curious if the germs from skin/hand contact with my products will cause mold eventually, because of the moisture FCO provides? I’m so lost about this.

    On a side note, if FCO isn’t possible, I’m thinking of Dimethicone. Basically the same questions, will I need a preservative for Dimethicone, also? Any kind of mold would kill my small business, as you know. 


    Thanks in advance for all of your help.
    MakingSkincare replied 9 years, 10 months ago 2 Members · 2 Replies
  • 2 Replies
  • Bobzchemist

    Member
    June 17, 2014 at 3:24 pm

    1) When I was working in powder cosmetics, we always put a preservative system in our pressed and loose powders. Always. I don’t think that there’s any way around it if you’re selling in the US.

    2) What makes you think that there’s any moisture in FCO/CCT/MCT? Also, rancidity has nothing to do with preservation. Rancidity comes from oxidation, so you will need an anti-oxidant as well as a preservative. They do different jobs.
    3) Germs do not cause mold. Yeasts and molds cause mold, on a product or elsewhere. Germs cause bacterial contamination. Hand/skin contact will absolutely contaminate a powder product with both, that’s why preservation is so very important.
    4) Yes, you need a preservative if you use dimethicone for a binder. You need a preservative no matter what you use for a binder. The preservative is to kill the germs and yeast/mold that gets on your powder. The liquid binder has nothing to do with this. Dimethicone doesn’t need an anti-oxidant, though. Dimethicone needs much more work than organic oils to make a good binder, so you might want to consider that.
    Bob
  • MakingSkincare

    Member
    June 17, 2014 at 4:41 pm
    Ditto what Bob says.

    Assuming formula compatibility, Germall II powder (.2%) coupled with these powders: methylparaben (.2%) and propyl or ethylparaben (.1%).

    Using liquid preservatives in powders is a challenge to get homogeneity in the batch. However, if you are confident that you can achieve complete homogeneity, you might try: 0.6% Germaben II with 0.3% Sodium Benzoate.  Another possibility is a system of 0.5% Phenoxyethanol, 0.3% Sodium Benzoate, and 0.3% Potassium Sorbate.  
    Whatever preservative blend you decide to try you will need to get this tested.

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