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Queen Helene Cleansing Cream
This is one of my favorite cold creams! I wanted to try to make it for myself but was wondering if anyone could help with the possible percentages of the ingredient list:
1. Mineral oil
2. Water
3. Beeswax
4. Ceresin
5. Sodium Borate
6. Stearyl Alcohol
7. Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
8. Fragrance
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4 Replies
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A quick google search will lead you to dozens of cold cream formulas.
For example: https://pharmaeducation.net/cold-cream-uses/
pharmaeducation.net
Cold Cream: Uses, Formulation, Preparation, Tests
Cold cream is a water in oil (W/O) emulsion. It is known as Fatty Cream according to European Pharmacopoeia.
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Experimenting would be much better than duping the formula. I have a lot of reason why but I’ll do my best to give an idea of what I would do:
1. Mineral oil (I would sub something lighter like jojoba or squalane, unless you need a very occlusive lipid, you can prob use less than 10%)
2. Water (Usually 50%+ of a cream recipe)
3. Beeswax (Usually less than 4% of a cream recipe but could be more)
4. Ceresin (Never used but for a special treat try a floral wax)
5. Sodium Borate (Haven’t made soap before)
6. Stearyl Alcohol (Nice powdery feel and co emulsifier, usually well under 10% of recipe)
7. Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (Not the most gentle cleanser, try subbing SCI at around 3-5%)
8. Fragrance (Eliminate, not worth the potential allergen although floral wax can introduce allergens it has a strong scent and has been gentle for my sensitive skin, usually fraction of a percent)
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Thank you both! ????
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Just FYI, that article - and your formula vector - has it all wrong. The author defines beeswax as a “stiffening agent” (insert Viagra joke here) when it is actually the primary emulsifying agent in tandem with borax in the Old School cold creams. The classic beeswax-borax ratio is ~ 12:1 using sodium borate decahydrate. We Old School formulators refer to that last one as “10 molar borax”. Peace.
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