Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Polysorbate 80 and Glyceryl monostearate emulsifier

  • Polysorbate 80 and Glyceryl monostearate emulsifier

    Posted by echidna89 on December 14, 2024 at 1:40 pm

    I’m trying to make a lotion with light liquid paraffin and sunflower oil as the oil phase and just water and glycerin in the aqueous phase.
    I’ve used Emulsifying wax nf(Polysorbate 60 and cetearyl alcohol) for multiple batches of this and it has worked.
    Can I switch the emulsifiers to Polysorbate 80 and Glyceryl stearate SE (obviously the ratio will require some testing) without compromising stability?

    My working formula:
    Oil phase, total 30percent:
    Sunflower oil: 15g
    Light liquid paraffin 10g
    Polysorbate 80+ GMS SE: 5g
    Water phase, total about 69 percent:
    water: 64g or qs
    Glycerine: 5g
    Cool down phase:
    Phenoxyethanol 0.5 percent
    Benzyl alcohol 0.5 percent
    Mixed tocopherols as antioxidant: 0.2 percent
    Optional actives, reducing water as applicable: 5 percent niacinamide in the cool down phase.

    I don’t require more than 4 months shelf life, since this is for personal use. Will the formula work? I love the texture of gms se!

    echidna89 replied 1 day ago 4 Members · 5 Replies
  • 5 Replies
  • Graillotion

    Member
    December 14, 2024 at 3:20 pm

    GMS with the SE tag…. likes a little higher pH that most emulsifiers. You did not mention pH.

    • echidna89

      Member
      December 17, 2024 at 2:14 pm

      I’m not relying on the SE here, it’s just that GMS nonSE is more expensive for me to buy here! Intended pH is 5.5 or below, but my lotion pH usually ends up below 5 anyway due to the Phenoxyethanol+ benzyl alcohol preservative. As far as I know, Poly 80 + GMS NonSE is also effective as an emulsifier combination, right?

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    December 16, 2024 at 1:34 pm

    You will need to revamp that emulsifier blend and increase it. Glyceryl Stearate S.E. @ 4.0% | Polysorbate 80 at 1.5%. Sorbitan Stearate would work better, especially if you added a tad bit of stearic acid (1.0%) with a dram or so of triethanolamine (0.15%) to stabilize.

    • Fekher

      Member
      December 17, 2024 at 11:42 am

      For Gms Se 4% and polysorbate 80 1.5% the hlb of the emulsifiers is inferior then 8 will this system lead to a stable o/w emulsion?

    • echidna89

      Member
      December 17, 2024 at 1:40 pm

      When you say sorbitan stearate, I guess you mean using Polysorbate 80 and sorbitan stearate as the blend? Thanks, that’s a good idea!

      @graillotion I have gms se on hand. Ph is about 5.

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