Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Penetration Activity in a Water-based Serum

  • Penetration Activity in a Water-based Serum

    Posted by molecularbiologist on October 19, 2025 at 6:03 am

    Hi,

    I’m formulating a water-based face serum that aims to deliver certain amino acids and peptides into the skin. As penetration enhancers, I use a combination of 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, and 1,2-octanediol, the total of which corresponds to 7.4% of the formula. I don’t want to increase the concentrations of these penetration enhancers further because higher concentrations may have the opposite effect on penetration. I also don’t use any gums, cellulose or microplastics that might inhibit penetration, I use only hyaluronic acid (which is a penetration enhancer) as the gelling agent.

    I would also like to include dipropylene glycol at 5-10% to improve slip and overall sensory experience, reduce tack, and keep the skin moist for a longer period of time. I know that dipropylene glycol has little to no effect on skin penetration on its own. I’m wondering whether adding 10% dipropylene glycol would have any negative impact on the penetration activity of the formula that already contains 7.4% of (1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-octanediol)?

    replied 4 weeks, 1 day ago 1 Member · 0 Replies
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