Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Mascara preservatives

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  • Mascara preservatives

    Posted by Rockstargirl on January 11, 2023 at 2:10 am

    Does anyone have experience with an anhydrous mascara formulation? I’m working on a project and the client is really giving me a hard time about using only sodium dehydroacetate in her w/o formula. I don’t think this will be enough. Any performance comments on that or a anhydrous version?

    PhilGeis replied 1 year, 1 month ago 4 Members · 9 Replies
  • 9 Replies
  • squinny

    Member
    January 11, 2023 at 4:56 am

    Hi Maybe look up ingredients of some of the nice brands like Clarins? I recently got a sample and it doesn’t irritate my eyes - I hadn’t used any for years because of that reason - This is their volume one - Supra Volume Mascara | CLARINS®
    AQUA/WATER/EAU, SYNTHETIC BEESWAX, PARAFFIN, ACACIA SENEGAL GUM, BUTYLENE GLYCOL, GLYCERYL STEARATE, STEARIC ACID, PALMITIC ACID, GLYCERIN, VP/EICOSENE COPOLYMER, VP/HEXADECENE COPOLYMER, COPERNICIA CERIFERA CERA/COPERNICIA CERIFERA (CARNAUBA) WAX/CIRE DE CARNAUBA, AMINOMETHYL PROPANEDIOL, ORYZA SATIVA (RICE) BRAN WAX, PANTHENOL, ACACIA FARNESIANA FLOWER WAX, DIMETHICONE, PHENETHYL ALCOHOL, OCTYLDODECANOL, ETHYLHEXYLGLYCERIN, SPHINGANINE, HYDROXYETHYLCELLULOSE, CELLULOSE, PVP, PHENOXYETHANOL, DISODIUM PHOSPHATE, POLYSORBATE 60, SODIUM PHOSPHATE, BIOTINOYL TRIPEPTIDE-1

    Another of there’s is
    AQUA/WATER/EAU. CI 77499/IRON OXIDES. SYNTHETIC BEESWAX. ACRYLATES/ETHYLHEXYL ACRYLATE COPOLYMER. PARAFFIN. GLYCERYL STEARATE. STEARIC ACID. COPERNICIA CERIFERA CERA/COPERNICIA CERIFERA (CARNAUBA) WAX/CIRE DE CARNAUBA. ORYZA SATIVA (RICE) BRAN WAX. PVP. AMINOMETHYL PROPANEDIOL. BUTYLENE GLYCOL. SORBITAN SESQUIOLEATE. PHENOXYETHANOL. CERA MICROCRISTALLINA/MICROCRYSTALLINE WAX/CIRE MICROCRISTALLINE. HYDROXYETHYLCELLULOSE. PANTHENOL. ROSA CENTIFOLIA FLOWER WAX. ROSA DAMASCENA FLOWER WAX. SUCROSE STEARATE. SPHINGANINE. DIMETHICONE. CAPRYLYL GLYCOL. ASCORBYL PALMITATE. TOCOPHEROL. LAURETH-21. POTASSIUM SORBATE. SYNTHETIC WAX. SODIUM STEARATE. HEXYLENE GLYCOL [MS3211A/00]

    Hope this helps - sorry I haven’t made any before as too messy for me. I guess main issue is the wand/brush applying to your eye lashes and contamination.

  • Richard

    Member
    January 11, 2023 at 5:19 am

    For a water based mascara I would be aiming for a pH higher than where DHA is going to be effective. This would limit the preservatives to those effective around pH 7 - Phenoxyethanol, Phenethyl alcohol, diols. It just depends how natural you need to be.

    For anhydrous formulations I don’t think I would use DHA although you should probably figure out if you need a preservative. But just because of where the product is going to be used I would give serious consideration to something fat soluble - Glyceryl Caprylate, Caprate

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    January 11, 2023 at 11:31 am

    @Rockstargirl
    Look at marketed products from major brands.  Wouldn’t put much confidence in Glyceryl caprylate. “caprate”
    Will formula, package, implement and anticipated use bring water/Aw into consideration?
    Consider parabens

  • Rockstargirl

    Member
    January 11, 2023 at 1:32 pm

    Squinny said:

    Hi Maybe look up ingredients of some of the nice brands like Clarins? I recently got a sample and it doesn’t irritate my eyes - I hadn’t used any for years because of that reason - This is their volume one - Supra Volume Mascara | CLARINS®
    AQUA/WATER/EAU, SYNTHETIC BEESWAX, PARAFFIN, ACACIA SENEGAL GUM, BUTYLENE GLYCOL, GLYCERYL STEARATE, STEARIC ACID, PALMITIC ACID, GLYCERIN, VP/EICOSENE COPOLYMER, VP/HEXADECENE COPOLYMER, COPERNICIA CERIFERA CERA/COPERNICIA CERIFERA (CARNAUBA) WAX/CIRE DE CARNAUBA, AMINOMETHYL PROPANEDIOL, ORYZA SATIVA (RICE) BRAN WAX, PANTHENOL, ACACIA FARNESIANA FLOWER WAX, DIMETHICONE, PHENETHYL ALCOHOL, OCTYLDODECANOL, ETHYLHEXYLGLYCERIN, SPHINGANINE, HYDROXYETHYLCELLULOSE, CELLULOSE, PVP, PHENOXYETHANOL, DISODIUM PHOSPHATE, POLYSORBATE 60, SODIUM PHOSPHATE, BIOTINOYL TRIPEPTIDE-1

    Another of there’s is
    AQUA/WATER/EAU. CI 77499/IRON OXIDES. SYNTHETIC BEESWAX. ACRYLATES/ETHYLHEXYL ACRYLATE COPOLYMER. PARAFFIN. GLYCERYL STEARATE. STEARIC ACID. COPERNICIA CERIFERA CERA/COPERNICIA CERIFERA (CARNAUBA) WAX/CIRE DE CARNAUBA. ORYZA SATIVA (RICE) BRAN WAX. PVP. AMINOMETHYL PROPANEDIOL. BUTYLENE GLYCOL. SORBITAN SESQUIOLEATE. PHENOXYETHANOL. CERA MICROCRISTALLINA/MICROCRYSTALLINE WAX/CIRE MICROCRISTALLINE. HYDROXYETHYLCELLULOSE. PANTHENOL. ROSA CENTIFOLIA FLOWER WAX. ROSA DAMASCENA FLOWER WAX. SUCROSE STEARATE. SPHINGANINE. DIMETHICONE. CAPRYLYL GLYCOL. ASCORBYL PALMITATE. TOCOPHEROL. LAURETH-21. POTASSIUM SORBATE. SYNTHETIC WAX. SODIUM STEARATE. HEXYLENE GLYCOL [MS3211A/00]

    Hope this helps - sorry I haven’t made any before as too messy for me. I guess main issue is the wand/brush applying to your eye lashes and contamination.

    Thank you. These also have phenoxyethenol so probably better preserved 

  • Rockstargirl

    Member
    January 11, 2023 at 1:35 pm

    PhilGeis said:

    @Rockstargirl
    Look at marketed products from major brands.  Wouldn’t put much confidence in Glyceryl caprylate. “caprate”
    Will formula, package, implement and anticipated use bring water/Aw into consideration?
    Consider parabens

    Thanks. Paraben would be my choice too but the no no list is loooong. So I’m thinking anhydrous will be safest 

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    January 11, 2023 at 2:18 pm

    think about exposure and use - what role spit, tap water have in consumer use and does product take up water on its own.

  • Rockstargirl

    Member
    January 11, 2023 at 2:30 pm

    PhilGeis said:

    @Rockstargirl
    Look at marketed products from major brands.  Wouldn’t put much confidence in Glyceryl caprylate. “caprate”
    Will formula, package, implement and anticipated use bring water/Aw into consideration?
    Consider parabens

    Thanks. Paraben would be my choice too but the no no list is loooong. So I’m thinking anhydrous will be safest 

  • Rockstargirl

    Member
    January 11, 2023 at 2:33 pm

    @PhilGeis
    right? That is my biggest worry. I’m not sure how there have not been more recalls on these kinds of products 
  • PhilGeis

    Member
    January 11, 2023 at 3:58 pm

    There was the famous problem in the 70’s that really fired up the FDA back then  https://europepmc.org/article/med/409295

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