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LIQUID FOUNDATION FORMULA CRITIQUE PLEASE
I have completed a stability test in the formula, and it has already some good comments on clients who testet it. However, I think I have a pigment wetting problem, as it dries in lighter shade. I mix in a vacuum homogenizer phase 1, then I add phase 2,phase 3 and 4 together. Finaly, I add water phase in very little flow under vacuum and mix in high speed for 30 minutes( after the emulsification happens).Here is the formula in rounded percentages,any advice about it, or the process would really be appreciated.
phase 1.
Dimethicone 17,000 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone 2,000 PEG-10 Dimethicone 4,500 Isododecane, Isobutylmethacrylate/Bis-Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone
Acrylate Copolymer3,000 Polymethylsilsesquioxane 2,000 Phenoxyethanol 0,900 Ethylhexyl Glycerin 0,100 phase 2. Dimethicone,Polysilicone-11, Laureth-12, 15,00 phase 3. Iron Oxides (CI 77492), Triethoxycaprylysilane 1,310 Iron Oxides (CI 77492), Triethoxycaprylysilane 0,400 Iron Oxides (CI 77491), Triethoxycaprylysilane 0,130 Titanium Dioxide, Triethoxycaprylylsilane 6,580 phase 4. Mica, Triethoxycaprylysilane 4,580 Phase 5. Aqua 35,900 Glycerin 5,000 Sodium Chloride 1,000 -
4 Replies
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I had a similar issue, my W/Si emulsion concealer had a different drying color. Try Kobo TTB pigments or dispersions: http://www.koboproductsinc.com/Downloads/Kobo-TTB.pdf
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You can also try a wetting agent like C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate (liponate NEB, finsolv TN).
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Try pre dispersing your pigments with a silicone fluid and passing them through a three-roll mill. I would also suggest to homogenize the pre dispersion with your Silicone/Elastomer + Emulsifier Phase till optimum smoothness is achieved.
Also in my opinion, the PE-9010 preservative blend would be better added to your water phase as this is a W/Si preparation.
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