Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Color and makeup liquid foundation doesn’t stick to the skin

  • liquid foundation doesn’t stick to the skin

    Posted by bita on October 11, 2017 at 7:29 am

    Hello every body
    I am trying to make a simple water in silicone foundation with this materials:

    water, cyclopentasiloxane, glycerin, cetyl dimethicone copolyol, phenyl trimethicone, trimethylsiloxysilicate,NaCl, silica, TiO2, iron oxides

    My problem is that the foundation doesn’t stick to the skin (or it doesn’t dry as fast as it should)!

    Does any body have any suggestion for me?

    bobzchemist replied 6 years, 6 months ago 5 Members · 15 Replies
  • 15 Replies
  • belassi

    Member
    October 11, 2017 at 2:53 pm

    Yes. Remove the cyclo, it is now no longer a permitted ingredient except at extremely low levels.

  • drbobverdient-biz

    Member
    October 11, 2017 at 3:54 pm

    Replace D5 with DC AMS C30 WAX.

  • bita

    Member
    October 12, 2017 at 6:36 am

    @Belassi do you know what is the best replacement for cylo?

    @DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ  I don’t have  DC AMS C30 WAX  here, do you have any other suggestion for me?

  • bita

    Member
    October 12, 2017 at 6:57 am

    And I have another problem, it seems the color of the foundation changing during applying on skin!!!  

  • drbobverdient-biz

    Member
    October 12, 2017 at 3:29 pm

    Use a small amount of xanthan gum ie 0.1% in water phase.

  • bobzchemist

    Member
    October 12, 2017 at 5:31 pm

    What agency has banned D5, and when was this decision made? I can’t find anything on this. I know D4 was determined to be bad, but not D5.

  • belassi

    Member
    October 13, 2017 at 1:05 am

    European regulations, there are some posts about it

  • bobzchemist

    Member
    October 13, 2017 at 4:06 pm

    Thanks, Belassi. I’ve gotten out of the habit of paying attention to the EU, since I work for a US-only company.

    What about volatile dimethicone fluid? Is that still OK?

    If it is, it would be a good substitute for D5.

    Also, the trimethylsiloxysilicate is the film former/adhesion promoter. If the formula isn’t sticking, increasing it would be the first thing I’d try. Using silicone-treated pigments would be the second thing.

  • bill_toge

    Member
    October 13, 2017 at 5:26 pm

    @Belassi which particular European regulations?

  • belassi

    Member
    October 13, 2017 at 6:07 pm

    Bill, there was a post on this a while ago that referenced the new regulations.

  • bita

    Member
    October 14, 2017 at 11:34 am

    thank you all for your suggestions.
    and update: I used 0.1% xanthan  gum in water phase and also increased the amount of trimethylsiloxysilicate . but they don’t help me as much as they should:
    the foundation doesn’t stick enough to the skin and it doesn’t dry as fast as it should and after a few time when I rub it again on the skin, the color changes (give me more coverage 
    :D )!!!!!!! 

    any other suggestion?  

  • drbobverdient-biz

    Member
    October 14, 2017 at 3:41 pm

    Try DC FA 4103 silicone acrylates emulsion and add to water phase;may also help with coverage on skin.Add some ethanol to water phase to dry faster.

  • bobzchemist

    Member
    October 14, 2017 at 4:09 pm

    If your foundation changes color on skin, it always means that you haven’t dispersed your pigments strongly enough. How are you grinding them into your product?

  • bita

    Member
    October 14, 2017 at 5:09 pm

    @Bobzchemist  I grind the powders in a coffee grinder then add them to the oil phase and mix them and after that add the water phase.

  • bobzchemist

    Member
    October 15, 2017 at 3:48 am

    That’s not enough.

    Are you a hobbyist or a professional, and what country are you in?

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