Ingredient Help

Tagged: formula development, formula help, formulating, hair, hair care

Hair

Ingredient Help

Posted by Anonymous on July 18, 2019 at 6:12 pm

Need advice on how to modify conditioner to work for low porosity hair looking to remove any ingredients that act like proteins or are unnecessary
Any suggestions greatly appreciated thanks

WATER (AQUA, EAU), CETEARYL ALCOHOL, CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE, PPG-3 BENZYL ETHER MYRISTATE, BEHENTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE, BEHENTRIMONIUM METHOSULFATE, C10-40 ISOALKYLAMIDOPROPYL-ETHYLDIMONIUM ETHOSULFATE, PERSEA GRATISSIMA (AVOCADO) OIL, ORGANIC PRUNUS AMYGDALUS DULCIS (SWEET ALMOND) OIL, ORGANIC PLUKENETIA VOLUBILIS (SACHA INCHI) SEED OIL, ORGANIC ARGANIA SPINOSA (ARGAN) NUT OIL, ORGANIC SCHINZIOPHYTON RAUTANENII (MONGONGO) KERNEL OIL, ORGANIC VITIS VINIFERA (GRAPE) SEED OIL, FRAGRANCE (PARFUM), PHENOXYETHANOL, DIPROPYLENE GLYCOL, BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII (SHEA) BUTTER, PANTHENOL, OLEA EUROPAEA (OLIVE) FRUIT OIL, COCOS NUCIFERA (COCONUT) OIL, PHYLLANTHUS EMBLICA (AMLA) FRUIT POWDER, TOCOPHERYL ACETATE, BENZOIC ACID, ETHYLHEXYLGLYCERIN, GLYCERETH-2 COCOATE, DISODIUM EDTA, CITRIC ACID.

Pharma replied 5 years, 5 months ago 1 Member · 1 Reply
1 Reply

Pharma

Member
July 19, 2019 at 7:15 pm

Define “act like proteins”. There is nothing in there which has anything to do with proteins (except for traces of them in the amla fruit powder).

- BEHENTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE and BEHENTRIMONIUM METHOSULFATE are basically the same with only minor differences, with the aim of a lean formulation, you could use just one of these.

- C10-40 ISOALKYLAMIDOPROPYLETHYLDIMONIUM ETHOSULFATE is also a quat. You could probably use just this one or only behentrimonium. But that’s from a very reductionistic point of view.

- A bunch of (organic) oils and butters. You could slim these down to just 1 or 2 or even zip and use a tick more caprylic/capric triglyceride instead (and adjust viscosity if needed by altering the amount of dipropylene glycol. Depending on your formulation, remove dipropylene glycol.

- Probably remove panthenol.

- Remove amla fruit powder.

- Tell the developers of that formula that they messed up. Given the fair amount of unsaturated fatty acids (especially sacha inchi) you’d be better off adding tocopherol instead of tocopheryl acetate. Tocopheryl acetate is useless, tocopherol on the other hand is very helpful in that particular formulation.

- Is glycereth-2 cocoate part of a blend used in that formulation and can be omitted? Else it might be required as co-emulsifier for increased stability/consistency.

- The rest is standard conditioner ingredients and should stay: water, fatty alcohol, emulsifier, fragrance, preservatives (can probably be slimmed down), sequestrant, pH adjuster.

Pharma