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HOW TO FORMULATE GEL EMULSION
Hi everyone i have to formulate gel based cream can anyone suggest the proper procedure for that. I ham using Sodium Hyaluronate as a gelling agent.
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4 Replies
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I don’t believe Sodium hyaluronate can be used as a gelling agent. You will need some type of carbomer or gum to gel the water BUT you can also use the sodium hyaluronate with it for the hydration functionality.
What type of gel are you trying to make and for what type of skin?
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I guess it depends what your definition of a ‘gel cream’ is. To me…that means a cream that is created with typical emulsifiers, but has a gel undertone.
To create that…. you simply add a gelling agent to your typical emulsion. If you have an existing emulsion as a starting point, this step might cause you to need to lower other thickening agents…should you desire to keep the same viscosity.
HMW HA can be used….as it gels… but the lower weights….not as much. HMW HA can also have the gelling aspect ‘sheared’ out of it… so timing will be important….meaning add the pre-made gel….post emulsion.
What makes a gel-cream magical… is the gel ‘breaking’ upon application. Maybe you have heard the term ‘fast break’. This is when the gelled portion of the emulsion literally breaks….upon coming into contact with the electrolytes on the skin….and dropping their load of water. Hence those gelling agent MOST susceptible to electrolytes…make the most wonderful feel. Here is looking at you …. Aristoflex AVC. Without that fast break… you lose a lot of the magic that a gel-cream can provide. Long and the short…. you need an electrolyte sensitive gelling agent…if you want a mind blowing experience.
There are a few other hacks that can help. I like to include Lauryl laurate as an emollient….as it melts immediately at skin temp…and helps to exacerbate the fast break feel. Combine this with some pentylene (not propylene) glycol…which makes water feel wetter (and many other things)… and pretty soon you have something that feels like a water balloon exploding on the skin.
I guess as a backdrop…. On your primary emulsifiers, it is important not to use something gross and heavy feeling, like e-wax of OliveM 1000. Stick with lighter feeling base emulsifiers like 165 type, or even Mont 202, or my fav….. a combination of those two. Add techniques like I mentioned above….and you got something. Of course, keep your oils below 10%, and your butters below .5%….and off you go. Keep sticky humectants to a minimum and go crazy with the esters….you know…just the usual stuff.
Most gelling agents….don’t like a ton of shear….so address this in your process.
Good luck.
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This reply was modified 1 month, 2 weeks ago by Graillotion.
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This reply was modified 1 month, 2 weeks ago by Graillotion.
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Wouldn’t you have to use HMW HA at a high concentration to get a “gel”? Unless the viscosity doesn’t need to be thick and fluidity is subjective.
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My point is… without the gel ‘breaking’…..you really don’t have anything….and it is a moot point. No amount of HA… will have the break of something like AVC. Might give a cooler feel…but no magic.
I tried to steer towards a polymeric that will ‘break’…. otherwise… you really won’t have much specialness. 🙂
I actually dislike HA…. at every level. 😆
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This reply was modified 1 month, 2 weeks ago by Graillotion.
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This reply was modified 1 month, 2 weeks ago by
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