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Help with conditioner formula
I’m very new to the formulating game, so I was wondering if some experts here could help me out. I’ve noticed some particularly high shine, moisturizing and frizz reduction in the performance of this conditioner formula and I’m trying to boil it down to the basic components. What would you say are the ingredients that are key to this performance? Thank so much in advance for your help!
Aqueous Infusion of: [Symphytum Officinale (Comfrey) Root Extract, Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Extract, Aspalathus Linearis (Rooibos) Leaf Extract, Anthemis Nobilis (Chamomile) Flower Extract, Arnica Montana Extract, Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Leaf Extract]. Kosher Vegetable Glycerin, Decyl Glucoside, Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Protein, Elaeis Guineensis (Palm) Oil, Hydroxypropyl Guar, Organic Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Retinyl Palmitate, Organic Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Cetearyl Glucoside, Glyceryl Stearate, Organic Euterpe Oleracea (Acai) Berry Pulp Oil, Cetyl Babassuate, Passiflora Edulis (Passion Fruit) Seed Oil, Oryza Sativa (Rice Bran) Oil, Orbignya Oleifera (Babassu) Seed Oil, Tocopherol (Natural Vitamin E), Oleoresin Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract, Lonicera Caprifolium Var. Caprifolium (Japanese Honeysuckle) Extract, Citrus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Orange) Seed Oil, Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Fruit Oil, Vanilla Planifolia (Madagascar Vanilla) Fruit Extract, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Oil.
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6 Replies
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One ingredient that I’m eyeing as potentially high impacting is Hydroxypropyl guar. It’s not super common in formulations, but it seems to be a viscosity increasing film former [1]. It also “has excellent water retention properties due to adequate molar substitution. The water retention is considered one of the most important features in construction applications” [3]. I’ve also read it has high Lubricity [4]. And it is key to artificial tear formulations [5]. Does any of this ring true to you all?
[1] Safety Assessment of galactomannans as used in Cosmetics
[3] Applications of hydroxypropyl guar gum in construction
[4] http://sansho.co.jp/en/find/polysaccharide/guarderivatives/
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Probably/likely the semi-synthetics and the oils for shine… like the mentioned HPG, Elaeis Guineensis (Palm) Oil, Organic Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Cetearyl Olivate, Organic
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Glyceryl
Stearate, Organic Euterpe Oleracea (Acai) Berry Pulp Oil, Cetyl
Babassuate, Passiflora Edulis (Passion Fruit) Seed Oil, Oryza Sativa
(Rice Bran) Oil, Orbignya Oleifera (Babassu) Seed Oil. Obviously, you can’t just use these for most hair types or you’d look like drowned in butter. These may, depending on hair type, also help against frizz and increase combability.Moisturising, besides the aforementioned ones, are the hygroscopic ingredients Kosher Vegetable Glycerin and probably Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Protein too. -
Do you think the specific oils in this formulation (Elaeis Guineensis (Palm) Oil, Organic Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Organic Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Organic Euterpe Oleracea (Acai) Berry Pulp Oil, Passiflora Edulis (Passion Fruit) Seed Oil, Oryza Sativa (Rice Bran) Oil, Orbignya Oleifera (Babassu) Seed Oil) could be replaced with other oils? Or do these specific ones have particular properties? Like ceramides, penetrating/non-penetrating etc.?
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You can look at the fatty acid/triglyceride profiles of those lipids to try and find substitutes. I’d say keep jojoba because its a liquid wax with pretty unique composition. Most of the others look like drier, fast absorbing oils
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They could probably all be replaced with sunflower oil.
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Oh yeah! Sunflower oil has such great penetration. It’s so much less likely to leave greasy residue. Good idea! I’ve also heard that shea butter can help with voluminizing hair. Is that true, or just a myth?
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