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Halp with some concerns in my creams noorishing + texture
Hi :p
I have been experimenting with diy creams for a while.. main reason i did it is cause i cant find find a cream just like i want it + i have a very sensitive skin to some ingredients, i am sure some of fragrances and ethyl alcohol do it but anyway (no acne just redness + dryness)…I have too many questions i hope someone has the nerve to read it all
NoorishingSo yeah… once i used a balm with bisabolol which was pretty good. D-panthenol + allantoin is good too, i use them in a trade cream now. They remove redness almost instandly and kinda hydrate the skin too imo. Bisabolol i think makes it a bit softer too. I have bought these ingredients and i am fine with them but i was wondering if there are more noorishing factors i do not mean natural. Fast google doesnt help much cause all people talk about it whitch hazel, otameal milk and chamomile…OilsI have been experimenting with various oil %, from 3 up to 30, heavy and light oils (argan, jojoba, grapeseed, walnut, macadamia, olive, castor, hempseed, shea, cocoa, chia). I cant see huge difference i may add, to my suprise, at the oilyness. Of course a cream with such low oils percentage -my favorite had 10%- is lighter and absorbed faster.. Grapeseed is way less oily than olive… but it is still oily. And, to be honest, i am not sure why use natural oils (?), i mean, yeah they do have emollient properties, some have many vitamins too… but… I will stick to them though, as long as i cant find anything way better.Recently i have come up with ingredients like Caprylic/capric trigliceride, Coco-caprylate, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Dodecane, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone, Myristate isopropyl and some other esters, oil and silicons way more expensive. I am definitely going to use them as they say they are way less oily and same if not more emollient, but, my problem is with the ratios. Do i use them at about the same ratios as the vegetable oils, is there anything different really with these ingredients, becides the vitamins, minerals etc? Or i just use them in ratios tha just appeal to me on the skin?Another thing, Dodecane. I have never found it in any cosmetic so far, and the information about it at google is limited. Some sporadic researches that relate it to carcinogenesis maybe (???)… Dodecane is supposed to be the ligher of them all, so i was quite intrested to use it… but is it safe?Lastly, esters in general, as many suppliers say, reduce the geasiness of the oils? By that, they mean that they are ligher so if u them with vegetable oils at the same time, maintaining the total oily ratio, u get a far lighter cream or they make vegetable oils themselfs feel lighter?EmulsifiersI may add here that my emulsifier BTMS 25 (Behentrimonium methosulfate + cetearyl alcohol) i am sure gives a cocoonish - sticky harder to absorb feel in my creams, more like a hair conditioner than a cream for skin (which actually is lol hehe i didnt know when i bought it). I have tested it with oils from 3% up to 30%, BTMS from 2% upo to 7%… it is always there that fell, the less btms, the less that feel. Just vegetable oil is acctually better in that cocoonigh sticyness lol. Is it my batch or wrong emulsifier?I am going to use a mix of Sodium stearoyl lactylate + Cetyl alcohol + Glyceryl stearate… i have found some people in blogs prefer these than others like btms, polowax, nf because they give better texture. Will they do the job or….? Any ideas maybe?Lastly, in a aqueus cream without any oils, water + water soluble stuff, how do i thicken it without gums? -
2 Replies
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Additives and extractsI was recently so much hypnotized from powders and extracts -in oils, glycerol or alcohol- and i was like ”omg put that, oh yeah put that too…. oh wow this too put it more MORE moooOOORRRRE vitaminsss”…. meh wrong idea i know.
My question is, can anybody know for real they do what they say they do? I mean ok, test them, feel the difference, agreed. But thats another thing from actually buying what u thinkk u buy…But ok, i am using them, for now at leasts, my main question is… Is it really worth to use extracts in glycerol or oils -i dont like alcohols-? I mean, do these extract have enough of the plants in them to be actually worth to buy or make? Perhaps synthetic stuff is better? Sadly here too all people talkk about at googgle is the wonders of nature and i have no idea about synthetic mixes of goodies…
The same applies to hydrosols. Well i wont buy ever chamomile water for that much money… jesus… i prefer to make it alone. For real.
I think thats it for now
love u allllllll
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I think you’d benefit a great deal from taking Perry’s course.
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