Hairconditioner tween80/glycol stearate emulsion

Formulating

Hairconditioner tween80/glycol stearate emulsion

Posted by luiscuevasii on August 4, 2015 at 2:48 pm

Greetings.

I want to know if someone has experience making a emulsion with glycol stearate and tween 80, I want to make a hair conditioner in this proportion:

Oil phase

Cetyl alcohol 2%
Stearic acid 1.5%
Mineral oil 2%
Solid white paraffin 2%

Water phase

Water qs
Polyquartenium 7 1%
Centrimonium chloride 1.5%
Glycerin 2%
Porpyleneglicol 1.5%
Tween 80
Glycil stearate
Fragance
Colorant

It is the first time that I’m trying to make an emulsion, making the math and playing with proportions of oil phase I got an hlb required around 9-11 I’m willing to use 4% between tween and glycol in proportion of the hlb. Can somebody tell me if I’m doing well. Because I don’t have available the instruments needed to verify the stability.

Chemist77 replied 8 years, 9 months ago 5 Members · 15 Replies
15 Replies

David

Member
August 4, 2015 at 10:47 pm

it is ok i guess although there are better and cheaper formulas (my opinion)

Regarding stability hlb is not a natural law just an empirical way of making a qualified guess - you will have put your samples on stability anyway. I think Perry has a page here somewhere on how to do it.
Bill_Toge

Member
August 4, 2015 at 10:59 pm

for what it’s worth: both glycol stearate and Tween 80 are very poor emulsifiers, because they are respectively too hydrophobic and too hydrophilic to effectively mix with both the oil and the water phase
luiscuevasii

Member
August 6, 2015 at 3:46 am

Thanks David and bill, I know that there is cheaper and easier formulas, in trying with this one because they are th only ones available in my country.
belassi

Member
August 6, 2015 at 4:41 am

It’s not that far from my own conditioner formula, but I would never use mineral oils (hydrocarbons).
luiscuevasii

Member
August 6, 2015 at 4:26 pm

Thanks belassi, im changing mineral oil and paraffin, to natural oils and natural waxes, but how do you thicken your conditioner? i just have CMC available, btw i just made my first attempt but i think that its going to separate and its totally liquid.
belassi

Member
August 6, 2015 at 4:49 pm

Thickening occurs simply because it is an emulsion, and o/w emulsions are thick. My own has 6% glyceryl monostearate and 3.5% polysorbate 80 and only 4.5% total lipids including the silicones. You may find it useful to add some cetearyl alcohol.
luiscuevasii

Member
August 6, 2015 at 5:38 pm

Thanks belassi, i just tried making 2 liters of conditioner with a hand mixer in hot process and phases separation occurs just 5 minutes later, and it wasnt thick, taking in consideration that im using 9.5% of waxes.

Why are you using 9% of twen/stearate i read that 4% of emulsifiers are enough, im putting twen in water phase and stearate in oil phase, heating both until 80°c and then mixing for about 10min, could the separation be a failure in the process?

Are you ussing HLB to determine the % of twen/stearate?
belassi

Member
August 6, 2015 at 5:54 pm

Why are you using 9% of twen/stearate

Because otherwise it separates.
Chemist77

Member
August 6, 2015 at 5:56 pm

Try cetostearyl and cetyl alcohol with glyceryl stearate, nothing else would be needed for stabilization as your cationic would double up as emulsifier as well.
luiscuevasii

Member
August 6, 2015 at 6:18 pm

Thanks belassi, and chemist77

@belassi my current hlb is arround 10, because of the Cetyl alcohol(15), do you think that i could use your proportions of twen/stearate?, or do you suggest that i need to raise the % of emulsifiers from my curent 4% to 10%?.

@chemist77 I dont have cetostearyl alcohol avaible in my country.
belassi

Member
August 6, 2015 at 7:55 pm

I began my formulation using the HLB method but experimentation led to what I have now. You need to get to work and see for yourself what works and what doesn’t.
luiscuevasii

Member
August 7, 2015 at 3:32 am

Thanks @belassi, just raised to 5%tween and 5%stearate and got a stable and thick emulsion, I’m going to play with proportions in order to low my cost.
Chemist77

Member
August 7, 2015 at 6:13 am

@Belassi I have polysorbate 80 nd I m thinking to use it in place of polysorbate 20, its a liquid hand wash with fatty acids, KOH, methocel, and a 10% concoction of SLES, CAPB & APG. Hope it can provide better stability.
belassi

Member
August 7, 2015 at 3:58 pm

Good, glad to hear you’re getting there!

@chemist77, I have both 80 and 20 and although I understand the differences between them, I can’t really say I have noticed any difference substituting one for the other (I do this kind of thing purely to gain experience)
Chemist77

Member
August 7, 2015 at 8:01 pm

@Belassi Since you mentioned it, think I would try and see how it performs.