Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Hair Hair conditioner bar

  • Hair conditioner bar

    Posted by RDchemist15 on November 11, 2021 at 4:32 pm

    Hello everyone,

    I am trying to create a hair conditioner bar:

    Cetearyl alcohol                                                  77.5%
    Behentrimonium Chloride                                   5.0%
    Dicetyldimonium Chloride (and) Isopropanol       2.0%
    Polyquaternium-7                                               2.0%
    Dimethicone                                                        2.0%
    Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride              0.5%
    Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine                        2.0%
    Glycerin                                                               2.0%
    Water                                                                  7.0%

    The bar wasn’t annealing together properly so I tried a melt and pour method and there was a “plastic” looking/feeling resin that could not be melted or dissolved. From this list is there any standout for ingredients that would be incompatible with each other? I am out of raw materials for the conditioning agents so can’t run a full knock out panel until I get more.

    To improve annealing I think next run I’m going to substitute the water for coconut oil, if that factors in any answer. 

    As a last bonus if anyone has an opinion, does this formula look too redundant. This is more a proof of concept at this point so levels haven’t been optimized and I’d rather “know/feel” an obvious conditioning effect but is there too many ingredients doubling up? I’m thinking I probably only need Dicetyldimonium Chloride or Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine?

    Thanks for any help,
    RDchemist15

    RDchemist15 replied 2 years, 5 months ago 2 Members · 2 Replies
  • 2 Replies
  • OldPerry

    Member
    November 11, 2021 at 5:40 pm

    I’ll answer the bonus question - It looks like you have a lot of redundant ingredients.

    These three all work by the same mechanism and will compete with each other. You only need one.
    Behentrimonium Chloride                                   
    Dicetyldimonium Chloride 
    Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine

    These two work by the same mechanism and will compete with each other. You only need one.
    Polyquaternium-7
    Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride

  • RDchemist15

    Member
    November 11, 2021 at 6:06 pm

    Hi @Perry

    Out of Behentrimonium Chloride, Dicetyldimonium Chloride, Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine are they all functionally the same even though they are all mechanistically the same? I usually see Behentrimonium Chloride paired with one of the other two and from reading about each one it sounded like Behentrimonium Chloride was more coating/ smoothing conditioning while the other two were more for antistatic/frizz conditioning (hence thinking I could eliminate one).

    Will eliminate the Guar for Polyquaternium-7 in the next round.

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