Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating hair conditioner

  • hair conditioner

    Posted by Dino on November 14, 2017 at 10:30 am
    Hello, 
    this is my formula for a rinse off  hair conditioner. if anyone can suggest if I need to add some silicone ?
    Cetearyl  alcohol           5%
    Cetrimonium chloride  1.5%
    Polyquaterium-68       0.5%
    Cosmedia Guar          1%
    Water q.s
    Spotlight replied 6 years, 4 months ago 16 Members · 50 Replies
  • 50 Replies
  • oldperry

    Member
    November 14, 2017 at 2:22 pm

    The decision to add silicones (or any other conditioning ingredient) depends on the performance characteristics you are looking for.  If you want a light conditioning effect you might add cyclomethicone but if you want more conditioning you could add dimethicone. However, if you don’t want to add silicones you might not have to either.

  • Dino

    Member
    November 14, 2017 at 3:01 pm

    Thanks perry :) :D

  • komirra

    Member
    November 14, 2017 at 7:26 pm

    I like silicones because they give me shine and helo with detangling. dimethicone is a good choice i agree. like amodimethicone even better.

  • Dino

    Member
    November 15, 2017 at 11:03 am

    Thx Komirra.

    What Preservative i should use ? 

  • sven

    Member
    November 15, 2017 at 11:04 am

    euxyl pe9010

  • Dino

    Member
    November 15, 2017 at 11:36 am

    oh  i have to add some fragrance.

  • sven

    Member
    November 15, 2017 at 11:39 am

    Thats cool i assume you also going to add some puffer ingredients such as pathenol etc etc

  • komirra

    Member
    November 15, 2017 at 1:05 pm

    I like liquid germall plus since its easy to work with. 

  • Lainee

    Member
    November 16, 2017 at 5:56 am

    Argan Oil is good also. 

  • AlexGokhale

    Member
    November 27, 2017 at 11:15 am

    Euxyl PE 1090/Kopcerin PE 1090 is really good for rinse-off products. Its a fast-selling item for me.

  • sven

    Member
    November 27, 2017 at 11:19 am

    i use the same also at 1% 

  • em88

    Member
    November 27, 2017 at 12:25 pm

    What would be the % for pantenol and argan oil?

  • sven

    Member
    November 27, 2017 at 12:31 pm

    you know mr Balassi and Perry are the super experts on this. I find what works best for me is about 1% panthenol because it is so expensive here. I have seen it as high as 3%. I use tiny amounts of argan oil 

  • em88

    Member
    November 27, 2017 at 12:35 pm

    I was thinking the same about panthenol (about 1%) and 0.5-1% argan oil. Both are expensive here.

  • belassi

    Member
    November 27, 2017 at 4:50 pm

    It seems to me that you’re lacking a fundamental conditioner ingredient (eg. BTMS) - you’re going to get what I got when I tried the same: a good detangler but not a conditioner.

  • oldperry

    Member
    November 28, 2017 at 12:07 am

    In truth, Panthenol and Argan oil are claims ingredients. Whether you use 1%, 0.5% or 0.01% will not matter.  They will not have a consumer-noticeable effect whether it is in the product or not.  At least that has been my experience. I came to the conclusion doing double blinded testing on formulas with and without the ingredients.

  • belassi

    Member
    November 28, 2017 at 3:39 am

    Panthenol and Argan oil. Considering that the conditioner is an emulsion, I would not include Panthenol except at say 0.1% as a puff ingredient. Before you include any oil in a conditioner, you need to check to see if it is Malessezia food. I can’t comment on Argan for that, because I haven’t done the research.

  • em88

    Member
    November 28, 2017 at 9:45 am

    So they are used just to speculate? Or in other words, it is added in small quantities (0.1%) just for ad purpose? 

  • oldperry

    Member
    November 28, 2017 at 1:23 pm

    @em88 - Yes, just added for claims purposes. The only formulators who use them at higher levels are those who have been mislead by the marketing departments of the raw material companies.

    If you did a blinded with / without test using Panthenol it’s highly unlikely you would be able to figure out which is which.

    Argan oil has about the same fatty acid composition as Olive Oil and will perform the same as it in a hair care product. In a shampoo, it will depress foam. In a conditioner, it may stay behind on hair to provide conditioning. But adding too much will result in the hair being weighed down.

  • em88

    Member
    November 28, 2017 at 2:38 pm

    Awesome info! It would be great to read an article regarding adding different oils in shampoo. Any information is much appreciated! 
    Thank you

  • doreen

    Member
    November 29, 2017 at 8:08 am

    @Perry
    In truth, Panthenol and Argan oil are claims ingredients. Whether you use 1%, 0.5% or 0.01% will not matter. 

    Couldn’t agree more. I don’t understand the whole run on different kinds of (expensive) oils (like Argan, Prickly Pear etc), if you  compare the oil profiles, there is nothing exceptional about it apart from some fatty acid content differences. It must be the idea of luxury I guess… 
    And I’m really tired of seeing vitamin claims on oils, lots of sellers (not only the Etsy/Amazon kind) claim their oils are containing water soluble vitamins naturally, like several B vitamins and especially vitamin C. I sometimes wonder if they are just plain stupid, or do they know they are selling lies?

  • doreen

    Member
    November 29, 2017 at 8:36 am

    The only formulators who use them at higher levels are those who have been mislead by the marketing departments of the raw material companies.

    And the only formulators who use levels below 1% are those who need to do so because the seller wants to mislead the customers by ‘spectacular Argan benefits’ claims, while customers are only paying for marketing, not the Argan.

    @em88
    Why would you incorporate an expensive ingredient like Argan and/or panthenol only at low levels because they are expensive? Isn’t that deceiving? 

  • sven

    Member
    November 29, 2017 at 9:08 am

    the South African market loves Argan. The marketing people has made it out to be the best thing since sliced cheese for ladies hair.

  • em88

    Member
    November 29, 2017 at 9:20 am

    I wouldn’t. I knew that there are lots of companies doing this, but I’m surprised that this thing is becoming so normal. 
    When I add an API (oils in this case) the quantity is justified on its pharmacological effect and it is based by pharmaceutical/medical scientific articles/books. 

  • doreen

    Member
    November 29, 2017 at 9:21 am

    @sven
    Sliced cheese for ladies hair?  :#
     ;) 

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