Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Formulating Water Based Pomade

  • Formulating Water Based Pomade

    Posted by sciencebae92 on November 23, 2022 at 2:25 pm

    Happy Hump Day everyone! I hope you all are safe and doing well. I’ve been trying to make my own version of a water based pomade that my stylist used on my hair and I have questions regarding formulating my own.

    Ingredients of the product that i am trying to copy:
    Aqua, Ceteareth-25, Oleth-20, Glycerol, Butylene Glycol, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, Propylene Glycol, PEG-7 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, DMDM Hydantoin, Fragrance.

    I’ve noticed that products similar to this use DMDM Hydantoin as its sole preserverative. However, isn’t DMDM Hydantoin bactericidal? If so, how is it being protected against yeast and mold? Also, is there a alternative preservative that I can use as I am not really a fan of f-donors (don’t judge me please  :) )

    In my formula, I used ceteareth-20 as I do not have access to Oleth-20. I am assuming it was used to lower the solidification point of the ceteareth-25? The hold is very minimal and the pH is around 6.5. Thank you so much for your help!

    Phase A:
    Water- 59%
    Glycerin- 4%

    Phase B:
    Ceteareth-25- 20%
    Ceteareth-20- 10%
    Propylene Glycol- 4%
    Peg-7- 1%
    Peg-40- 0.8%

    Phase C:
    Fragrance- 0.2%
    Euxyl PE 9010- 1%

    MariaSibon replied 2 years ago 4 Members · 3 Replies
  • 3 Replies
  • DavidW

    Member
    November 23, 2022 at 10:23 pm

    I don’t have an answer but if you search pomade you will find prior discussions that may help.  I remember seeing them.

  • Bill_Toge

    Member
    November 23, 2022 at 10:31 pm
    oleth-X has very different physical properties to ceteth- / steareth- / ceteareth-X - it’s a wedge-shaped molecule rather than a linear one, so it takes up much more space at the water/oil interface, and therefore they can’t be used interchangeably
    with DMDM hydantoin, the major concern is temperature; these products have to be mixed and filled at high temperatures (60+ °C), and DMDMH will not survive an extended filling run that hot
  • MariaSibon

    Member
    December 1, 2022 at 8:27 am

    Hello, So what is your concern?

    If you need more hold, use only ceteareth-25 to succeed a harder paste, or include a fixative in the formula. Increase Peg-7 Glyceryl Cocoate and Peg-40 Hydr. castor oil to make the mixture more easy to handle.

    I am interested to rad any updates and if you tested your formula.

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