Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating ethylhexyl olivate vs ethylhexyl palmitate

  • ethylhexyl olivate vs ethylhexyl palmitate

    Posted by Graillotion on April 26, 2020 at 6:09 am

    Are these basically the same thing….just different feedstock?

    Thanx!

    Graillotion replied 4 years ago 2 Members · 4 Replies
  • 4 Replies
  • Pharma

    Member
    April 26, 2020 at 8:13 am
    Olivate (if not hydrated) is rich in mono-unsaturated fatty acids and contains about the same cocktail of fatty acids as olive oil whereas palmitate is commonly derived from purified palmitic acid. As a rule of thumbs, unsaturated fatty acids such as oleic acid (the major constituent of olive oil) but also all their derivatives have a lower boiling point than corresponding saturated fatty acid derivatives. Hence, they feel more liquid, spread better, have more ‘slip’, tend to be drying, and reduce formation of solid crystal networks. In case of ethylhexyl esters, the effect is less pronounced than comparing for example olive fatty acids with palmitic acid, Tween 80 with Tween 40, or glyceryl olivate with glyceryl palmitate because the ethylhexanol moiety shows a similar effect than unsaturated fatty acids and therefore, the difference between the two compounds is more or less just half as much.
  • Graillotion

    Member
    April 26, 2020 at 8:50 am

    Pharma said:

    Olivate (if not hydrated) is rich in mono-unsaturated fatty acids and contains about the same cocktail of fatty acids as olive oil whereas palmitate is commonly derived from purified palmitic acid. As a rule of thumbs, unsaturated fatty acids such as oleic acid (the major constituent of olive oil) but also all their derivatives have a lower boiling point than corresponding saturated fatty acid derivatives. Hence, they feel more liquid, spread better, have more ‘slip’, tend to be drying, and reduce formation of solid crystal networks. In case of ethylhexyl esters, the effect is less pronounced than comparing for example olive fatty acids with palmitic acid, Tween 80 with Tween 40, or glyceryl olivate with glyceryl palmitate because the ethylhexanol moiety shows a similar effect than unsaturated fatty acids and therefore, the difference between the two compounds is more or less just half as much.

    Sorry…should have been more clear….Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables vs Ethylhexyl palmitate

  • Pharma

    Member
    April 26, 2020 at 12:00 pm
    Hydrogenated ethylhexyl olivate is very similar to ethylhexyl palmitate. The only difference comes from the unsaponifiables (mostly squalane with smaller amounts of glycolipids and yet smaller ones in phytosterols). All depends on amounts and proportions present: unless added extra, the unsaponifiables make up about 1 meagre %. At least the claim is an improved effect on skin barrier and skin flexibility. I have to point out that I don’t have any personal experience with that product! Simply as an educated guess, I’d say that all an expert tester may feel is presence of tiny amounts of squalane which is a bit lighter in feel, easier to spread, and absorbs faster but else feels fairly similar to ethylhexyl palmitate… In other words, 99.99% of consumers won’t feel the slightest difference.

    Hydrogenated olivate is simply less processed and hence less pure palmitate and it’s palm oil free -> this makes for good claims for being ‘more natural’. If you feel like going a small step greener, go with olivate, else only consider $$ or go with palmitate which has a superb batch-to-batch consistency, nicer optical appearance (no colour nor odour), and good availability even in larger quantities.

  • Graillotion

    Member
    April 26, 2020 at 7:41 pm

    Thank you.

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