Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Hair Deep conditioner for ethnic hair type

  • Deep conditioner for ethnic hair type

    Posted by Sissie on March 14, 2017 at 6:05 pm

    Hello

    i want to make a conditioner for my hair type, which is kinky curly ethnic hair and would like to know if the formula below will be ok and i am looking to cut cost in buying ingredients before trying out the knock out experiment.

    The formula
    6% cetyl alcohol
    6% Oils (coconut, babassu and avocado)
    4% shea butter
    2% glycerin
    2% Behentrimonium (INCI: Behentrimonium chloride ethyl alcohol
    2% centrimonium chloride
    2% cetearyl alcohol
    1% di panthenol
    1% cetyl esters
    1% fragrance
    1% preservative (liquid germall plus)
    1% chamomile extract
    1% sea kelp extract

    53% water

    Thank You

    komirra replied 7 years, 1 month ago 5 Members · 7 Replies
  • 7 Replies
  • OldPerry

    Member
    March 14, 2017 at 6:44 pm

    You won’t notice a difference whether you include the chamomile, sea kelp or panthenol so you could skip those or put them at lower levels.  

  • belassi

    Member
    March 14, 2017 at 6:49 pm

    You’ve got 17% lipids in there. I don’t think the emulsification system will be adequate,

  • Sissie

    Member
    March 14, 2017 at 8:30 pm

    Thank you for your suggestions,

    Will increasing the cetearyl alcohol content and adding conditioner SD make the emulsification more adequate.

    6% cetearyl alcohol
    5% Oils (coconut, babassu and avocado)
    4% shea butter
    2% cetyl alcohol
    2% glycerin
    2% Behentrimonium (INCI: Behentrimonium chloride ethyl alcohol
    2% Conditoner SD INCI Name: Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine
    2% centrimonium chloride
    1% cetyl esters
    1% fragrance
    1% preservative (liquid germall plus)
    0.5% sea kelp extract
    0.5% di panthenol

    71% water

    It’s for a rinse out conditioner.

  • belassi

    Member
    March 14, 2017 at 8:31 pm

    Try it and see.

  • johnb

    Member
    March 15, 2017 at 7:44 am

    Why use cetyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol - they are effectively the same thing?

    I think the solids content is too high for a hair conditioner and the lipid content far too high. Likewise 6% cationics will most likely cause a noticeable overconditioning and a floppy or waxy coating effect. A poin of interest: fabric conditioners only contain 4 - 6% cationic and 100ml or so is sufficient to condition a washload of several kilos of laundry - far more than a head of hair

  • komirra

    Member
    March 21, 2017 at 1:01 am

    I have the same hair texture as you and create deep conditioners for this hair type. I think the amount of oils is too much. 3% total of oils is plenty. I would skip the shea butter and choose babassu or coconut. I have tried MANY conditioner formulas, and have found that shea butter in the conditioner reduces the detangling affect. atleast for myself

    I personally like 2% conditioner SD (be sure to reduce the pH to 3- 4 in the water phase) and 2% Betrimonium chloride. 2% betrimonium chloride alone wasn’t enough for me. but try it both ways and see what you like.

    @johnb
    I have never had a problem with 6% cationics. I have been using a formula for a few months that has this cationic total. I have see no negative effects. personally my hair wasnt getting soft with cationics at lower levels. but I do clarify weekly, so maybe this is why no waxy effect. 

  • komirra

    Member
    March 21, 2017 at 1:03 am

    I also agree with @Perry about the panthenol, sea kelp extract, and chamille thing. you could probably also skip the glycerin for a rinse out. I used to use ingredients like this, but noticed no real difference when I took them out the formula

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