Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Color and makeup cream compact query

  • cream compact query

    Posted by Chris on September 8, 2017 at 12:54 pm

    Hi Im just needing some advise with a cream eyeshadow compact formula. The formula is a mixture of dimethicone oils, hydrogenated polisorbutene, ozokerite wax and micas. My problem is that the formula tends to want to separate when getting too hot and the wax and oils come to the top if not agitated continually. Yet I need to get it to a specific temperature to be able to pour it into compacts but when too hot has this issue and then goes the other way..too cold can’t pour!!!! help please!! - 

    aperson replied 5 years, 12 months ago 5 Members · 7 Replies
  • 7 Replies
  • Bobzchemist

    Member
    September 8, 2017 at 4:04 pm

    First thing to check is if your pigments are ground finely enough to suspend properly in your product when it’s hot. The fact that it’s “separating” and needs to be constantly agitated tells me that this is likely the first problem you need to solve.

  • Chris

    Member
    September 11, 2017 at 12:08 pm

    They Are micas. Do you suggest grinding the micas?

  • Bobzchemist

    Member
    September 11, 2017 at 2:56 pm

    If you are only using micas, then no, don’t grind them. But they still need to be properly dispersed. (I’ll also point out that if you’re getting color solely from colored mica, you are spending way more money on raw materials than you need to.)

    Since you can’t grind micas without losing their iridescent properties, you are going to have to increase the suspending power of your base instead. Most people use bentonite gels for this purpose.

  • tracingrobots

    Member
    October 28, 2017 at 9:50 am

    Is that one of the best ways to suspend mica in a water based spray? Well, at least suspend some of the mica so the solution looks cloudy.

  • Bobzchemist

    Member
    October 29, 2017 at 2:10 am

    Mica won’t usually suspend in anything that’s thin enough to spray

  • Bill_Toge

    Member
    October 29, 2017 at 4:07 pm

    @Bobzchemist I’ve found gellan gum works well for this; it creates solutions that are immobile at rest but thin very readily under shear

  • aperson

    Member
    April 30, 2018 at 6:41 am

    @Bill_Toge

    … and I was just wondering whether or not you could use a shear-thinning fluid to suspend when I ran into you comment ;) very useful tip!

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