Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Color and makeup Correct pour temperature for cream makeup

  • Correct pour temperature for cream makeup

    Posted by bellbottom on April 24, 2018 at 9:56 pm

    Hello all. I am a hobby formulator. I am making some lipsticks and creamy foundation and I have run into an issue concerning pour temperature (I think!).
    I have noticed my solid/creamy foundation samples start out “wetter” and less pigmented, then feel “drier” and more pigmented as time passes. Now, the formulas are all anhydrous so it’s not evaporation. I use carnauba wax exclusively and I know it takes days (weeks?) to reach its final hardness. So my question is: is it possible I am pouring it too hot, which means the mixture is very liquid and therefore not holding the powder pigments in correct suspension, where they sink to the bottom? Or is it just the carnauba wax being super finicky? Because visually speaking it looks perfect (no visible ombre effect, for example). 
    Thanks in advance.

    A sample formula I use for the foundation:

    45% sunflower oil
    10% murumuru butter
    5% cacao butter
    10% carnauba wax

    25% pigment blend (oxides + TiO2)
    5% corn starch

    gunther replied 5 years, 9 months ago 2 Members · 1 Reply
  • 1 Reply
  • gunther

    Member
    June 8, 2018 at 2:07 am

    I believe you’re missing several ingredients for proper formulations.

    For foundations and lipsticks you’ll need a film-former, like polyisobutene
    Silicones, fatty acids long-chain fatty alkanes, esters, emulsifiers if you use water, and so on.

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