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Conditioning Shampoo Formula leaves hair tangled Please Help!
Hello everyone, I’m new here. I want to ask help because I have been formulating a conditioning shampoo for months but I can’t seem to achieve the conditioning effect. The formula leaves hair clean, and nice when dry, but wet combing is almost impossible without a conditioner/leave in conditioner. I have tried many conditioning agents (Polyquaterniums, Croda’s Arlasilk, Cromollient, Lustreplex) but nothing seems to work. I want to achieve a performance like Garnier’s hair food 98% natural hydrating aloe vera shampoo (ingredient list in photo), which has a good sensory in shower and makes hair easy to detangle when wet even without conditioner, so I know it is possible.
Here is the main formula I have been trying:
Water 76% approx
Sodium Laureth Sulfate 9% (I have tried to vary between 7 and 11%)
Coco-Glucoside 3%
LAMESOFT PO65 (68% Coco-Glucoside (and) Glyceryl Oleate) 1.3% (Have tried to vary between 0.8 and 1.8 %)
Cocamidopropyl betaine 4%
Cocamide DEA (1-2%)
Polyquaternium-7 (1%)
Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride (0.25%)
Polyquaternium-10 (0.15%)
Fragance (0.6%)
PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate (0.3%)
Panthenol (0.2%)
Methylchloroisothiazolinone (and) Methylisothiazolinone (0.1%)
Trisodium salt of Methylglycinediacetic acid (MGDA) (0.1%)
TEA
I also tried to replicate Garnier’s formula but I could not adjust viscosity.
Please help me balance the formula or maybe mention a conditioning agent I could use to improve performance.
Thank you in advance.
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16 Replies
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You need something to add lubrication, and for that, silicones are kings (or queens). Are you up to use silicones? Or not really? Chances are the benchmark you chose also leaves hair tangled.
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Hello Ketchito, I forgot to mention that with Garnier’s shampoo my hair is a little bit tangled right after the shower but it is amazing how easy it is to detangle, its like I had used conditioner or leave in but it’s actually just the conditioning effect of the shampoo
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Just as an experiment, remove your coco-glycoside and increase Lamesot PO65 up to 5% (as is). I see on the manufacturer’s website that tests are done at the highest recommended dose, and the Garnier product actually has it at high level, so let’s see if the magic occurs at that dose. If positive, you can start dosing down until you find a confortable level.
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Helloooo! I tried increasing Lamesoft to 3.5% and removing pure coco glucoside but it didn’t improve the performance and it was almost impossible to remove the shampoo from my hair 😭 do you have any other idea?
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Hello! Thank you for your response. I didn’t want to use silicones because of the “natural concept” but I am open to try if it’s going to improve performance significantly. I have tried Dows Microemulsions 8170 and 8177 but I wasn’t sure how much I should use. I tried 3.0%.
Which silicone would you recommend that can give me a translucent formula?
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Also I couldn’t adjust viscosity when I added Silicones, I tried adding NaCl or magnesium sulfate but the viscosity just wouldn’t increase.
Do you have an advice for increasing viscosity when using silicones?
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You can increase your CAPB a bit, and check again if NaCl increased the viscosity. Also, for transparent systems, you could use PEG-12 dimethicone, between 1-2%.
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Hello!
I will increase CAPB then to 5.0%. I will try adding Dow 193 fluid which is Peg-12 dimethicone. When do you reccomend adding it?
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Hello !
I think you can remove the Coco-Glucoside, already added by the Lamesoft.
Also, what is your introduction order ? Sometimes there are anionic/cationic interactions and this can affect the effectiveness of your cationic agents.-
Hello! Do you think Coco-glucoside is affecting performance?
Here is my order of addition:
1.Water
2.Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride
3. Citric Acid to neutralize guar and make it clear
4. CAPB
5. Sodium Laureth Sulfate
6. Lamesoft PO65
7.Coco-glucoside
8. PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate
9. Polyquaternium 7
10. Polyquaternium 10
11. Panthenol
12. Methylchloroisothiazolinone (and) Methylisothiazolinone
13. Fragance
14. TEA
Thank you.
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Hello 🙂
I don’t know about the impact of Coco-Glucoside, but you already have it into the lamesoft, maybe it’s too much.
About the introduction order, i would make a different way : water + surfactant system into the main bulk, and cationic agents into annex bulks (Guar neutralized into 10% of water, same thing with PQ10. (don’t need to be neutralized, but stir it in 50°C water until clearness). Then introduct the annexes into your system.
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Hello! The thing is that I am using Dehyquart Guar Tc which is Guar for translucent formulation and I have to add it right before betaine and then SLES or otherwise it becomes cloudy 😭
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Hi am new to this platform…just a suggestion…how about incorporating PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate
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Hello! Is that a conditioning agent?
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Its an emulsifier that helps in conditioning too.
Am a budding formulator who only focuses on making products for myself & family/friends.
Am glad I joined this forum because I was able to gain a lot of information (which I was not aware) from many experts in this panel.
Having said that, the above Ingredient was introduced to me by my kind instructor. She told me that its advisable if I use it only for a shampoo which is a rinse off product & its best if I stick onto a percentage of 1 to max 1.5.
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References where I cross check to validate info about ingredients given o me
NIH
SPECIAL CHEM
TAYLOR FRANCIS ONLINE
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