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Conditioner feeling when application
Hi!
As of lately i’ve been formulating a hair conditioner. So far the conditioning effect, the viscosity and the texture is really good, the thing is that i’m not feeling it “stick” to my hair as much as commercial conditioners do. I have noticed that i have to use twice as much conditioner as i normally would (with a store bought conditioner) because it isn’t really “adhering” to my hair. My formula has quite a nice viscosity to it, it is thick whilst also beign fluid, so i don’t understand why i’m having problems to really make it sparse evently throught my hair. And i noticed that it isn’t because i don’t have enough cationic charge, because even after i tested it using my ”normal” amount it did an amazing job detangling my hair (and i have to say my hair gets tangled A LOT), so i think it really is missing one ingredient that can make it cremier? stickier?
This is my formula, any help/recommendations you could give me would be amazing!!
* My guar gum is quaternized, the conditionize 37E is Polyquaternium-37 and my silicone alternative is Hydrogenated ethylhexyl olivate (and) hydrogenated olive oil unsaponifiables. *
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4 Replies
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Off the top of my head, the lipid profile is sparse. Fats tend to stick. I personally have never been able to successfully deploy guar in my conditioning formulas but everyone else has so I am not sure of the entire formula. My conditioners stick like a mother. Its literally the best conditioner so I keep the formula top secret. However, in comparison I use far more lipids. About 16%, its thick enough when I melt the bar down. The BTMS level looks good but you can even lower it 1-2 percent and add a secondary fatty acid. I avoid silicones so I don’t know how it works in your formula but I’ve been able to achieve similar shine with cupuacu butter and glycerin.
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Hi, MaidenOrangeBlossom!
Thank you so much for your reply! If I may ask a question—I think I didn’t understand very well—is your oil phase 16%? Personally, I haven’t seen a formula with that high of an oil percentage, but I can definitely try increasing mine; maybe that could help. Also, if it’s not intruding, may I ask what hair type you have? That could be an important factor to consider. If you have thick and curly hair, a high oil phase might work well for your curls, but for straight hair, it might be too much.
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Very straight and on the thin side. The way it was made, it doesn’t weigh hair down or make it greasy. But I used a combinations of light and emollient butters and oils. But what helps are the water based ingredients. I experimented with a simple formula but it wasnt nearly as nice. My hair looked very similar so you definitely can simplify the bar and rework the ingredients. It depends on your marketing and what benchmark you’re trying to hit. I also use a lot of vegetable glycerin for the liquid version which is the same ingredients as the bar but more water and glycerin. People have said it was the best conditioner they’ve used.
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This reply was modified 3 weeks ago by MaidenOrangeBlossom.
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This reply was modified 3 weeks ago by
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Hi Natasha,
First of all, I do not think that a “silicone replacement” will necessarily act as a real silicone.
Also, a 16% of oil might work in a conditioner bar, but I highly doubt that will work in a cream-conditioner.
Apart from the 600+ Forum discussions on “conditioner”, you might find these two articles interesting/useful:
https://chemistscorner.com/what-conditioner-ingredient-work-the-best/
https://labmuffin.com/busting-hair-conditioner-myths-build-up-silicones-weighing-hair-down-etc/
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