Ultimate dream cream

BelassiBelassi Member, PCF student
in Formulating
So I decided to use everything or almost everything in one cream, obviously a limited edition because the exotic extracts are bloody expensive.
It is something like this:

water 60% approx

LIPIDS: shea, myritol 318, vit. E, chia oil, water-dispersible silicone, total 5%
EMULSIFIERS: glyceryl monostearate 2.5%, Emulgin VL-75 1%
Actives (polar) 25%
Urea 5%
pure glycyrrhizic acid 2%

I deliberately held the emulsifier % too low because I wanted to get an idea of its behaviour combined but not yet properly emulsified. After about 3 hours it separates into two layers with the polar components as usual below. Also, it is way too thin. Now, how to proceed?

1. Add a long-flow thickener such as glucamate vlt.
2. use a carbomer to stabilise it as a pseudo-emulsion.
3. increase the emulsifiers to enable proper emulsification.

I think first I'll try adding another 1% Emulgin. If that doesn't do it, maybe I'll try adding cetearyl alcohol.
Cosmetic Brand Creation. Concept to name to IMPI search to logo and brand registration. In-house graphic design inc. Pantone specs. Cosmetic label and box design & graphics.

Comments

  • luiscuevasiiluiscuevasii Member
    Wow chia oil is kinda expensive here. It would be awesome to have all your ingredients in my country.
  • BelassiBelassi Member, PCF student
    Chia oil is around MX$ 160 for a quarter litre here, so it's about $50 per kilo.
    Cosmetic Brand Creation. Concept to name to IMPI search to logo and brand registration. In-house graphic design inc. Pantone specs. Cosmetic label and box design & graphics.
  • luiscuevasiiluiscuevasii Member
    For that prices I would expect that it make me like 5 years younger.
  • BelassiBelassi Member, PCF student
    Well. Did more experiments. The Emulgin performs poorly in this formula. Cetearyl alcohol works well. However the lipid content needs to be doubled and the licorice can't be dissolved at that percentage.
    Cosmetic Brand Creation. Concept to name to IMPI search to logo and brand registration. In-house graphic design inc. Pantone specs. Cosmetic label and box design & graphics.
  • charmercharmer Member
    bonjour 
    utilisez SEPINOV EMT 1.5%+SEPIMAX ZEN 1 % ET VOUS AUREZ UNE TEXTURE DE CREME GEL IMPRESSIONNANTE.
  • BelassiBelassi Member, PCF student
    @charmer: Thank you for the suggestion. Unfortunately I don't have access to that product line in Mexico.
    Cosmetic Brand Creation. Concept to name to IMPI search to logo and brand registration. In-house graphic design inc. Pantone specs. Cosmetic label and box design & graphics.
  • BelassiBelassi Member, PCF student
    I have managed to come up with a formula for this. I added a lot more Myritol 318, increased the cetearyl and monostearate accordingly, and added 3% of 70% ethanol so as to solubilise the glycyrrhizic acid. It tended to separate at first but with mixing during cooling has turned out pretty well. Now to refine it further.
    Cosmetic Brand Creation. Concept to name to IMPI search to logo and brand registration. In-house graphic design inc. Pantone specs. Cosmetic label and box design & graphics.
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