Hi everyone,
I have confronted a technical problem in my formulating and experimenting process. Since hand mixers and stick blenders for kitchen u is all I have on hand at the moment I was wondering if anybody has any suggestion on a proffessional mixer I could invest in to make batches up to 2 kilos. I am at the moment ocused on emulsions only.
Thanks a lot!
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www.makingskincare.com
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I heard many people use these blenders for small commercial operations successfully
Thank you all! I have just got from bed finally free of viruses and got some useful info from you guys to study! Thanks a lot. I look forward to exploring world of mixers!
Cheers,
Jasmine
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Electric-overhead-stirrer-mixer-variable-speed-25-W-New-/330401686003?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ced79a1f3
friends, If you are going to find a suitable cosmetic production
machine. i am gonna say I can help you!We are specialized Cosmetic
production machine manufacturers. we have been in this area for years.
We have mature technology and skilled engneers. Any Inquiry will be
welcome contact me at: Skype:iknjerry Email:Jerry03916@gmail.com in the
end i would like to show you some picture of our products.
>do u have any shape or website?
Hi @nasrins, the best impeller/blade for emulsion some say is sawtooth.
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DIY MIXER PROJECT
I was planning to do a few mod-mixers to get pictures and videos. All that I have done I have never record the process step by step.
I am going to reveal the secret.
Why the air bubbles, why: The mistake many make is mixing emulsion using the up and down motion - is lifting the mixer above the emulsion line, out of the emulsion, and inserting it back again, etc. Constantly lifting the kitchen immersion mixer "up and down" to mix. This is a no, no. Why? When you lift the mixer head "up and down" above the emulsion line, air gets pulled into the empty space as the blade spins and makes contact back with the emulsion again.
Kitchen hand immersion mixers are great for mixing cosmetics because of their speed-rpm. I guess one can say it's a low-end shear untamed mixing device. But there is more to shear-mixers that has to do with the mixer-head shield design; because the high-rpm and the impeller in the head creates close/near-wall jet-force as the emulsion pulls through the head.
The project I will share is for a 'Simple DIY mixer'. The 'Deluxe DIY Project' is more involved and is almost shear performance.
Simple DIY inexpensive mixer:
1. Get this kitchen immersion mixer. "Cuisinart CSB-33 QuikPrep Hand Blender". The mixer impeller/blade (as is) is decent and will create a nice vortex. If you don't like it at that angle, just use a strong pliers to twist the blade more in the vertical:
http://www.amazon.com/Cuisinart-CSB-33-QuikPrep-Blender-White/dp/B00004VXB2
2. You need an Off and On switch, which can be modified into the unit; or you can just tape a button formed from layered cardboard pasted together, etc. Put the cardboard cutout button over one of the speed button and press it in as you wrap adhesive tape around the handle to keep the button pressed in. Or you can use a rigid piece of cardboard and insert into the 'thin bottom space' at 'low speed button' of the CSB-33 switch to keep it pressed in. Or you can just Krazy glue it in. Keep in mind that the Hand Blender will be powered On at all times because the switch is held in.
3. To solve the Constant Power ON problem, use a "Speed Controller, Variable AC Motor Rheostat". Get this one. It only works with Brush-Type Motor, which the CSB-33 is:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009KAEP7A
4. The Cuisinart-CSB-33 has a plastic shield head. On the top of the plastic shield head, drill 4 holes in cross-formation. (You can use this drill bit to make the holes. Use with caution, not to damage the CSB-33 impeller, because it is fixed: http://www.amazon.com/SE-Diamond-Core-Hole-DC3124CD/dp/B009W6C10A , or just use a 1/4 inch shaft star-head screwdriver (insulate the handle) and heat it on the stove (CAUTION, BE CAREFUL!!!), and puncture holes into the top of the shield in cross-formation, since the shield is plastic.) These holes will prevent vacuum build-up and will create channel vortexes for better mixing. Also, the holes will release any trapped air in the shield-head as you insert the shaft into the syrupy emulsion. The shaft of this blender is good for a 4 quart container, because the shaft is only 5 1/2 inches long. For a 4 quart batch, leave about 1 inch shaft length above emulsion line.
5. Get this: American Educational Cast Iron Triangular Base Support Stand, 5" Legs, 1/2" Diameter x 24" Length Rod Size: http://www.amazon.com/American-Educational-Triangular-Resistant-Diameter/dp/B00657VP7E
6. Get this: SEOH CLAMP HOLDER UNIVERSAL up to 3/4" rod (The Pivot Clamp Holder costs 3 times more, but it allows you to angle the blender shaft): http://www.amazon.com/SEOH-CLAMP-HOLDER-UNIVERSAL-rod/dp/B0018MKX5Q
7. Get this: Talboys 916059 Nickel-Plated Zinc 2-Prong Dual Adjustment Multi-Purpose Extension Clamp, 11mm Diameter x 127mm Length Arm, 95mm Grip Size: http://www.amazon.com/Talboys-Nickel-Plated-Adjustment-Multi-Purpose-Extension/dp/B005CJV68Y
8. ASSEMBLY OF PARTS: Attach the 'SEOH Clamp Holder Universal' in the vertical to the 'American Educational Cast Iron Triangular Base Support Stand' and adjust and tighten. Then attach the 'Talboys 916059 Nickel-Plated Zinc 2-Prong' in the horizontal to the 'SEOH Clamp Holder Universal' and adjust and tighten. Then insert the Hand Blender into the 'Talboys 916059 Nickel-Plated Zinc 2-Prong' and adjust and tighten. Plug the Hand Blender power cord into 'Speed Controller, Variable AC Motor Rheostat' socket. The Rheostat will be the master On and Off switch and speed controller. That is it.
9. Optional. (If you adjust the mixing shaft close to the edge of the container, the swivel base will make for better uniform mixing as some emulsions thicken.) LapWorks 12" Heavy Duty Swivel With Steel Ball Bearings: http://www.amazon.com/LapWorks-Swivel-Bearings-Outdoor-Monitors/dp/B003IWFS0Y
DIY mixer affixed to a stand project complete. This mixer project is a start for 'curious' formulator crafters. I hope I was able to paint pictures of the steps using words.
I was looking for a hand held homogenizer at a reasonable price, and came across the
CAT X120. At US$357.00 I thought it was quite reasonable, but then realized that it is just for the drive, and that the Shaft and Generator Assembly will cost an additional US$450.
I then started searching on Google for cheaper alternatives, and ended up here.
I do have a question, and hope someone can help.
I had not quite given up on finding a DIY hand held, variable speed, high shear mixer/disperser, and contacted Jim, at Gardco.
He replied "Most cosmetic companies use a small 1-5/8 inch dispersion blade with a 12 inch 3/8 diameter shaft."
SO, I then got excited, and contacted Dremel to ask what size shaft their Dremel Pro 3000 (Variable speed from 5,000 to 32,000 RPM) takes.
Big disappointment, they wrote:
"The Dremel high speed rotary tools will only accept a shaft size that is 1/8" - 1/32"."
So, the Gardco shaft is too big.
My question:
Does anyone know of a shaft (and disperser blade) that will fit in a 1/8" - 1/32" socket?
OR
Does anyone know of a variable speed rotary tool (5,000 to =/-30,000 RPM, that can fit a 3/8 diameter shaft?
This setup is really intended for the DIY Skin care crowd, for making small fresh batches of about 50 to 100 gram of product.
A Dremel is not a must, but it is the only small tool I have found with this RPM range, I will follow your suggestion!
Regards,
John
www.makingskincare.com
www.learncosmeticformulation.com (free online course)
Formulation discussion forum (18,000 members): www.facebook.com/groups/makingskincare/
, I have emailed promixmixers.com, because they state they can customize shafts, and asked if they can do their 25S12 shaft (1/4" wide -12" long) with a 1/8 inch
taper at the end.
Will post updates here.
MakingSkincare, what sort of torgue would be best for viscous emulsion?
So far I have only focusssed on speed.
Steve Schmidt from DisperseTech wrote
"Usually we try to reach a tip speed of 5000 feet per minute. So a 4" blade would need about 5000 rpm, a 2" - 10,000, a 1" 20,000."
Dremel 3000: 125W to 130W with 10,000-33,000rpm.
Dremel 4000 : 175W with 5,000 - 35,000rpm
Cat Scientific X120: 140 Watt with 5000 – 35000 rpm
Cat Scientific Unidrive X1000: 650 Watt with 4000 – 33000 rpm
I am still looking for a variable speed electric drill that has high torgue AND high variable speed RPM.
www.makingskincare.com
www.learncosmeticformulation.com (free online course)
Formulation discussion forum (18,000 members): www.facebook.com/groups/makingskincare/
www.makingskincare.com
www.learncosmeticformulation.com (free online course)
Formulation discussion forum (18,000 members): www.facebook.com/groups/makingskincare/
www.makingskincare.com
www.learncosmeticformulation.com (free online course)
Formulation discussion forum (18,000 members): www.facebook.com/groups/makingskincare/
"we will not be able to modify the shaft to fit the Dremel as this will be too thin to machine.
Also the shaft will become weak and dangerous at high speed"
So, the Dremel is now definitely not an option ;-)
Will now look for a high torgue and high speed electric drill, and use tonyh's
idea of using the "Speed Controller, Variable AC Motor Rheostat" (from his post above)
>idea of using the "Speed Controller, Variable AC Motor Rheostat" (from his post above)
@johnsutw: The plan I gave above is just a surface (not too involved) plan. In this plan the "Speed Controller" does not range from 0 - 15,000 rpm (etc). To have 100% rpm Rheostat control, the 2-speed switch in the stick blender has to be disabled internally. (Many squirm at this dirty work). Doing this will give the Rheostat 100% speed control from 0 to 15,000 rpm (for example). You will be able to mix gels, shampoos, etc.
If you are going to mount the drill to a lab stand, and to have 100% speed control, you are going to have to disable the power switch and connect the wires from motor to internal power cable of drill. As is, the drill switch is between the motor and power cable. If you can do that, then connect the Rheostat always, and buy shafts and blades/impellers.
Did you try to copy and paste your pictures? I just tried and worked.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CF3J07E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And a 8 mm shaft 55mm sawtooth disperser for $64 (I bought the last one)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CF3J07E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Seems like a good deal for the home gamer / semi-professional who only use the tool on occasion. One concern, is there any need for higher RPMs?
Rotor/Stator won't fit into small vessels.
Higher minimum speed.
Slow China shipping, and imagine warranty returns, lol.
Other emulsifier/homogenizer options are typically repackaged dremels with 5000 rpm minimum speed or used giants which require $500 rotors to work. At that point you might as well use an industrial immersion blender instead.
You could get a 40 - 6000 RPM overhead mixer used for $500 on ebay though: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Caframo-Ultra-Speed-Digital-Stirrer-BDC6015-40-6000-rpm-/232010563536?hash=item3604e83fd0:g:0SMAAOSwyKxXhQm-
New $1500.
Good thing there is that they will/should be able to supply sizes from domestic kitchen/small restaurant to large scale industrial production.
$160 including shipping, variable speed from 530-3100 RPM with LED readout. I mean what more could you ask for - changing beakers has never been easier
I tested the Generic Chinese unit described above, comes with an external 110 - 220V PSU outputting 24V DC, 72W. Can be overclocked to run at 2750 RPM through the menu. Silent brushless DC motor and nice timer feature, but too much run-out (spindle wobble) for my liking causing vibrations at certain RPMs. If not for that it would have been 5/5.
Tip speed with 55 mm sawtooth disk:
Circumference = 3.14 * 0.055m = 0.173m
Speed = 0.173m * 2750 rpm = 475 m/min or 8 m/s
Seriously, it's stuff like this that gets me so annoyed at the lab mixer companies. Something just like this on a lab stand and in different colors would run about $2,000 - $3,000.
I've experienced this twice when the mixer/drill was working very hard for a long period and over a heater but, for normal uses and as long as an eye is kept on proceedings, these drills are excellent for the purpose.