What is creating hold in this formula? Volumizing mousse.

sainthilsainthil Member, PCF student
distilled vitamin enhanced aqua (water), non-GMO corn or rice extract, organic vegetable glycerol, organic herbal extracts of: Ribes nigrum (black currant) extract, Beta vulgaris (beet root) extract, Kham thai & Vaccinium myrtillus (blueberry); natural plant sourced vitmains B1, B2, B3 & C; organic Cocos nucifera (coconut) oil, plant sourced kosher vegan Xanthan gum & Potassium sorbate; organic African black soap, Vitamin A, essential oils of: Rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) & Lisea cubeba (may chang)
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Comments

  • BelassiBelassi Member, PCF student
    Who makes that?
    Cosmetic Brand Creation. Concept to name to IMPI search to logo and brand registration. In-house graphic design inc. Pantone specs. Cosmetic label and box design & graphics.
  • sainthilsainthil Member, PCF student
    Yarok - a professional haircare line.
  • BelassiBelassi Member, PCF student
    Frankly I give no credence whatsoever to any company selling a shampoo made with African "black soap", I know exactly what that is and how it's made, and in a hard water area will give horrible results. And as for this:
    "Step Three: Magnetic Stone & Ceramic Magnets: This magnetic field purifies the water’s structure and drops the surface tension of the water while boosting its solubility"
    LIES and NONSENSE
    Cosmetic Brand Creation. Concept to name to IMPI search to logo and brand registration. In-house graphic design inc. Pantone specs. Cosmetic label and box design & graphics.
  • Well, while I have witnessed the efficacy of West African "black soap" before (highly effective on eczema), I am yet to see any company make/create a COA or MSDS of any. So, I wonder how they managed to get a pass with that particular final product; perhaps they made one in-house.
  • sainthilsainthil Member, PCF student
    I wonder if they aren't listing all the ingredients. I don't know anything about the black soap. But I'm wondering what ingredient they are using that gives the hair hold. This is a volume mousse but I haven't been able to identify what gives the hair body and hold. Any ideas?
  • Bill_TogeBill_Toge Member, Professional Chemist
    edited March 2015
    well for starters, they're not using standard INCI or CTFA names for most of their ingredients, so it's clear they've got a pretty cavalier approach to labelling regulations

    also, there's nothing declared on the label that would make it foam, which is a pretty fundamental  requirement for mousse

    with that in mind, I'd bet they're using a synthetic polymer and not declaring it on the label
    UK based cosmetic chemist with 13 years' experience at the bench. I've worked with pretty much everything apart from pressed powders, soap, solid lipstick and aerosols.
  • sainthilsainthil Member, PCF student
    The bottle is fitted with a manual mousse pump. It comes as a liquid though.
  • Bill_TogeBill_Toge Member, Professional Chemist
    even with a mousse pump, you still need some kind of surfactant to create lasting foam
    UK based cosmetic chemist with 13 years' experience at the bench. I've worked with pretty much everything apart from pressed powders, soap, solid lipstick and aerosols.
  • BobzchemistBobzchemist Member, PCF student
    That ingredient list is clearly fraudulent and non-compliant, so I doubt you could trust anything on it.
    Robert Zonis, Sr. Formulation Chemist, Beaumont Products "All opinions and comments expressed are my own, have no relation to Beaumont Products, are fully copyrighted, and may not be used without written permission."
  • "Lisea cubeba (may chang)" is actually supposed to be LITSEA cubeba.

    It is possible that the xanthan gum and rice/corn extracts can produce a loose, messy foam as well as some hold (or "stickiness" that would give the illusion of hold). That ingredient list is still mind boggling though.
  • sainthilsainthil Member, PCF student
    Belassi, what don't you like about African Black Soap? And, what does it do in hard water?
  • Chemist77Chemist77 Member, PCF student
    Guess the first thing is very high pH (I have made and tested Moroccan soap though) and secondly it would form insoluble salts with hard water ions which would markedly reduce the cleaning efficacy of the soap. 
    Last but not the least the dark lumpy structure is a big turn off to start with 
    :((
  • BelassiBelassi Member, PCF student
    Exactly. Plus, it is a quite variable product especially in terms of pH.
    Cosmetic Brand Creation. Concept to name to IMPI search to logo and brand registration. In-house graphic design inc. Pantone specs. Cosmetic label and box design & graphics.
  • sainthilsainthil Member, PCF student
    I see. Thank you for the insight!
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